In a lively home in Subang Jaya, 68-year-old Soh Lay Choo and her son Chong Yu Cheng—better known as YC, the chef-founder of Kuala Lumpur’s Michelin-starred Terra Dining—reflect on the unique culinary relationship that has shaped their lives. While YC has achieved acclaim for his progressive approach to Malaysian cuisine, he credits much of his inspiration to his mother’s influence.

Despite his playful claim that he became a chef because his mother’s cooking “wasn’t that great,” YC acknowledges that his mother played a pivotal role in igniting his passion for food. Lay Choo’s journey in the kitchen began later in life, after the passing of her own mother when she was 38. With her parents living with her, she felt compelled to improve her cooking skills, initially starting with simple tasks like frying vegetables for her father. She recalls calling her husband to critique her early attempts, demonstrating the earnest but evolving nature of her culinary skills.

Her 93-year-old father, Soh Kim Yew, remains a devoted fan of her cooking, especially her homemade chilli sauce served with popiah, which he prefers exclusively over other versions. Lay Choo’s children, including YC, were supportive during her culinary learning curve, offering little criticism at the time.

Interestingly, YC’s transformation from a kitchen-averse youth to a celebrated chef surprises his mother, who never imagined he would enter the culinary world. She remembers him as hesitant around stoves and knives during his secondary school years, a stark contrast to his current confidence and expertise.

Their reciprocal relationship fosters ongoing culinary exchange, with Lay Choo eager to learn from YC’s refined techniques and modern interpretations. This dynamic has led to enhancements in traditional family recipes, such as Terengganu lor mee. A rare specialty from their hometown in Kuala Terengganu, the dish features a complex combination of noodles, beansprouts, a savory-sweet gravy, and an assortment of proteins including crab, prawns, pork, and chicken. Central to its flavor is Terengganu kicap manis, a sweet soy sauce variant enriched with fermented anchovy sauce (budu), though this ingredient is becoming increasingly scarce even locally due to the decline of its cottage industry.

While Lay Choo maintains her traditional preparation methods, YC applies restaurant techniques to deepen the dish’s flavor profile, preserving its rich and umami-packed character. Their shared passion for food not only strengthens their personal bond but also exemplifies a blend of heritage and innovation within Malaysia’s culinary landscape.