At Mount Vernon, Virginia, baker Justin Cherry is reviving a centuries-old tradition by producing bread using methods and recipes from the Revolutionary War era. Operating his Half Crown Bakehouse from a historic-style camp tent equipped with a clay oven, similar to those used by Continental Army bakers, Cherry offers visitors an immersive glimpse into 18th-century baking practices. His work comes as part of the nationwide bicentennial celebrations marking the 250th anniversary of the United States’ founding, with events scheduled over five years at significant Revolutionary War sites from Massachusetts to Florida.
Cherry, based in Charleston, South Carolina, has been particularly active this year as the baker in residence at Mount Vernon, George Washington’s estate. His schedule also includes forthcoming appearances at Washington’s Crossing in Pennsylvania and Monmouth Battlefield in New Jersey, locations known for their Revolutionary War reenactments featuring muskets and cannon fire.
Starting his baking process in the early morning hours, Cherry follows a 10-hour routine that closely mirrors historical practices. Weather conditions present ongoing challenges, as he navigates heat, cold, wind, rain, and snow to maintain the integrity of his tent and oven. His family assists during busy periods, dressed in period-appropriate clothing, engaging visitors with discussions about colonial baking and history.
Cherry’s offering centers on one-pound loaves of bread comparable to the rations issued to Continental soldiers, priced at about $15 each—significantly higher than the mid-1700s equivalent of a half-crown, or approximately $3.50. Additionally, his menu includes seasonal colonial-era products such as salt pork butter, locally sourced cheeses, salted fish, and gingerbread made with reproduction hand-carved molds. His goods are known to sell out quickly, fueled by the aroma of fresh bread.
Growing up in western Pennsylvania within a family passionate about historical reenactments, Cherry developed an early interest in colonial-era cooking. After working with chef Sean Brock at Husk restaurant in Charleston, he constructed his own clay oven by consulting with foodways historian David Shields and studying 18th-century baking specifications from the Salzburgers community near the Savannah River.
Cherry emphasizes authenticity in his ingredients, using grains ground on site at Mount Vernon’s gristmill and employing barm—a natural brewer’s yeast sourced from local breweries, reflecting pre-industrial leavening techniques. He adapts recipes by region, mirroring the practices of Washington’s army bakers who relied on locally available resources.
His research highlights figures such as Christopher Ludwick, a German immigrant and baker who served as Washington’s superintendent of bakers, managing numerous supply depots producing thousands of loaves for the troops. According to Washington’s records, the army required approximately 100,000 pounds of flour annually to feed 15,000 men, with Washington personally funding many baker payments.
Cherry also draws attention to lesser-known historical bakers like Cyrus Busthill, an emancipated African American who operated baking and brewing businesses under military contract during the war and later contributed to Philadelphia’s early African American community.
Historic sites have welcomed Cherry’s participation. At Cliveden in Philadelphia’s Germantown area, executive director Carolyn G. Wallace praised the educational value of experiencing authentic 18th-century flavors as a way to deepen understanding of the era.
Visitors frequently express appreciation for Cherry’s work. Cindy Kitchel, an educator and avid bread baker from Indianapolis visiting Mount Vernon, said that witnessing the traditional baking process offers a tangible connection to the American Revolution’s significance and the ongoing America250 celebrations.