Marco Pierre White, Britain’s first celebrity chef, has voiced sharp criticisms of cooking shows like MasterChef, describing them as more fantasy than reality. Speaking ahead of the launch of a new BBC series chronicling his career, White dismissed the popular format as a “reality show” that presents cold, hours-old food on screen, cautioning viewers not to take it seriously. “It’s food porn,” he said, adding that if such shows inspire people to cook, that is their sole merit.
The forthcoming three-part documentary, titled The Rise of the Rockstar Chef, will air later this year and explore White’s influential role in British culinary history during the 1990s Cool Britannia era. It will also feature fellow chefs Gordon Ramsay, White’s former apprentice, and Heston Blumenthal, highlighting the relationships and rivalries that shaped their careers.
White’s return to the spotlight marks nearly four decades since he opened his first restaurant, Harveys, in South West London in 1987. The restaurant quickly earned Michelin recognition, securing its first star almost immediately and a second shortly thereafter. White’s classical training under Albert and Michel Roux at their two-Michelin-starred La Gavroche laid the foundation for his innovative ingredient-focused approach, which transformed the British dining scene. After six years at Harveys, he went on to become the youngest chef to receive three Michelin stars at The Restaurant Marco Pierre White in Hyde Park, before moving to the Oak Room at Le Meridien Piccadilly Hotel.
In a move that stunned the culinary world, White returned his Michelin stars in 1999 after a 17-year pursuit of perfection, a decision he stands by today. He expressed skepticism about Michelin’s current role in gastronomy, claiming the organisation has lost its way. “They know more about tyres than they do about food,” White said. “The romance has gone. They have turned gastronomy into a canapé party.”
White, now 64, also criticised modern kitchen culture, particularly what he perceives as a lack of discipline and the prevalence of alcohol and drugs. He noted that he himself abstained from alcohol until age 41 and never used drugs, describing the current state as “pretty sad.”
Reflecting on his own early kitchen experiences, White offered a stark contrast to the widely known temper of Gordon Ramsay, suggesting his own treatment was far more severe. “If I think what my head chef used to call me… that is another conversation,” he said. “A good b*****king did not do anybody any harm. It gave me backbone. It gave me a spine.” He emphasized the rigour expected in professional kitchens during his early career, noting that employees were never late nor allowed to call in sick.
White also rejected popular television portrayals of the culinary world, specifically critiques of the American drama The Bear and the film Burnt starring Bradley Cooper. He described both as “fluff” and dismissed the manufactured nature of their drama. Despite being approached by now-disgraced producer Harvey Weinstein to coach Cooper, White declined.
Though no longer a professional chef, White remains outspoken about cooking and flavour. He revealed an unexpected secret to his culinary success: the use of Knorr stock cubes. He credits the seasoning with helping to win his three Michelin stars, explaining that the ultimate priority is creating the desired taste, regardless of the ingredient source.
“Whatever I cook, I always use a little bit of Knorr instead of stock,” he said. “My customers don’t care whether it is salt or Knorr as long as it tastes delicious.”