Marks & Spencer has sparked debate after introducing a range of crotchless lingerie through a new collaboration with Ann Summers, marking a notable shift in the retailer’s approach to women's underwear. The partnership includes 19 crotchless items, such as lace thongs available in a three-pack for £20 and sheer tights designed to combine traditional stocking aesthetics with the practicality of tights.
This move is part of a broader effort by Marks & Spencer to attract a younger demographic, particularly Millennials and Gen Z shoppers, who have increasingly contributed to the retailer’s lingerie sales. In 2024, the company reported a rise in lingerie purchases, attributing much of this growth to the appeal of its “bolder and brighter styles.”
Despite the commercial success, the pivot toward more provocative products has prompted mixed reactions. Nicole Wright, a London-based customer, expressed surprise over the launch. She described her initial encounter with the advertisement as a “marmalade dropper moment” and admitted to being taken aback that such items were being sold by a brand known for more traditional undergarments. Wright chose not to purchase any of the new lingerie after viewing the range online.
Similar sentiments surfaced on the parenting forum Mumsnet, where users voiced fatigue over the prominence of overtly sexualized products in mainstream retail outlets. One contributor lamented the lack of spaces free from “sexy fun,” highlighting discomfort among certain consumer segments.
Industry analysis suggests that the collaboration signals a significant evolution for Marks & Spencer. Kate Hardcastle, a consumer expert, noted that the retailer is not merely selling lingerie but reshaping its brand identity to appeal to a wider audience. She emphasized the challenge for Marks & Spencer to balance innovation with the trust it has cultivated over its century-long history. Thus far, the retailer’s willingness to adapt has surprised many observers.
The partnership also reflects a change in the relationship between Marks & Spencer and Ann Summers. In 2011, Ann Summers faced backlash for a promotional campaign that parodied Marks & Spencer’s popular dining mix-and-match offer, a campaign that Ann Summers’ then-chief executive Jacqueline Gold acknowledged had gone “a squeal too far.”
A spokesperson for Marks & Spencer explained that the introduction of Ann Summers products aligns with its “Our brands at M&S” strategy, aimed at expanding customer choice through carefully selected third-party brands that complement its existing lineup. The addition of Ann Summers is intended to broaden the retailer’s underwear and nightwear selection.
As Marks & Spencer continues to modernize its offerings, its ability to navigate consumer expectations and brand legacy will likely remain under close scrutiny.