New York City’s plan to open five municipally owned grocery stores has drawn sharp criticism from industry experts, who question the viability of the proposed business model outlined in a recent city request for proposals (RFP).

The initiative, championed by Mayor Mamdani, aims to establish “publicly funded, privately operated” supermarkets across each of the city’s boroughs, with the goal of providing New Yorkers with more affordable food options. Last week, the New York City Economic Development Corporation (EDC) released a 44-page RFP seeking bids from vendors to manage the stores.

However, restaurateur Nick Kokonas publicly criticized the plan, calling it a “ridiculous idea” that is likely to result in subpar stores. Writing on social media platform X, Kokonas highlighted several concerns, including the fact that only two of the store locations, in Manhattan and The Bronx, have been identified. The RFP requires bidders to present cost estimates for as-yet unspecified sites, estimated at roughly 15,000 square feet each— a condition Kokonas deemed unreasonable.

The document proposes that the city will cover the design and initial setup costs for the stores, while operators will be responsible for maintenance and operational expenses. Kokonas suggested this arrangement unfairly shifts financial risk onto the operators, stating, “NYC makes the capital decisions while someone else pays for the consequences.”

Another point of contention is the city’s decision to forgo any identification or income verification requirements for shoppers, allowing anyone to access the subsidized groceries. Kokonas warned this could mean taxpayers ultimately subsidize purchases made by affluent residents living near the stores, while families in greater need elsewhere might see no benefit.

Additional industry voices expressed skepticism about the approach. Andy Arons, former owner of Gourmet Garage, told reporters that he found the RFP’s metrics incomparable to his own experience in the grocery sector. Arons suggested that a more effective strategy might involve increasing SNAP benefits for those in need rather than funding city-run supermarkets.

Efforts to obtain responses from the mayor’s office and the EDC were unsuccessful. Kokonas was also not immediately available for further comment.