Mercado Buenos Aires, a family-owned deli and market located in Van Nuys, California, has long served as a cultural hub for the local Argentine community. Founded in June 1989 by Manolo Rodriguez, a butcher from Argentina, the establishment has evolved from a simple market specializing in Argentine products into a vibrant gathering place that celebrates both cuisine and culture.
On most mornings, the deli experiences a quiet ambiance, with a few older Argentine patrons enjoying coffee and pastries known as medialunas. However, the atmosphere dramatically changes during major soccer events. During a recent World Cup group-stage match between Argentina and Algeria, the restaurant became a focal point for fans clad in Lionel Messi jerseys. Patrons chanted and celebrated each goal with spirited enthusiasm, prompting long lines outside and forcing owner Paul Rodriguez to turn away some eager customers.
Rodriguez, who assumed ownership in 2009 following his father’s retirement, noted the deli’s role as more than just a restaurant. It functions as a social anchor for Argentine immigrants in the San Fernando Valley. “Whenever something involving Argentina happens, we gather here,” he said, referring to past community celebrations such as the election of Pope Francis. The popularity of soccer in Argentina is deeply ingrained, and this year’s World Cup, marking what is expected to be Messi’s final tournament, has only heightened the sense of anticipation.
The menu at Mercado Buenos Aires reflects the country’s culinary traditions, particularly its emphasis on meat. The restaurant is known for offerings like entraña (skirt steak) and house-made Argentine sausages, specialties rooted in Manolo Rodriguez’s experience as a butcher. Empanadas, introduced by Paul Rodriguez’s mother, Clelia, have become a signature item, representing both a culinary and emotional connection to the family’s heritage. In addition, the establishment offers a range of Argentine products including wine, chimichurri, alfajores, and yerba mate.
Paul Rodriguez’s personal history with the deli dates back to his youth, when he worked there after school. His professional training at Le Cordon Bleu and subsequent opening of Buenos Aires Grill in Northridge underscore his dedication to preserving and promoting Argentine cuisine. He also collaborated with winemakers in Mendoza to produce an exclusive Malbec offered at Mercado Buenos Aires.
The deli has grown into a haven for Argentine immigrants, many of whom arrive in the United States uncertain about where to find community support. Rodriguez highlighted the social aspect of the culture, saying, “Argentines are very social people. We like to sit down, have coffee, and talk for hours. When you come to the U.S., you lose that.”
During recent World Cup events, the deli’s atmosphere has drawn not only Argentine patrons but also admirers from diverse backgrounds, including visitors from Mexico, Jordan, Israel, and Egypt. Rodriguez observed that soccer’s unifying power transcended typical divisions, describing the scene as “very beautiful” as fans collectively focused on the game.
As Argentina defends its World Cup title, Mercado Buenos Aires continues to stand as a vibrant symbol of cultural heritage, community, and shared passion for soccer among the diaspora in Southern California.