Michelin-starred restaurants in France are increasingly contending with thefts of tableware and other items by diners, with owners reporting losses ranging from hundreds to thousands of euros annually. Beyond high-end cutlery and silverware, stolen objects include candles, flowerpots, hand creams, and even bathroom fixtures such as toilet roll holders.
Romain Hubert, co-owner with his wife Oriane of L’Emulsion in Paris, which holds a Michelin star, described a series of thefts affecting both his fine-dining venue and his adjacent bistro, Lo Fieu, rated with a Bib Gourmand. Before his restaurant achieved Michelin status, a customer removed an entire toilet roll holder along with its mounting hardware, leaving damage to the wall. Hubert also recalled a woman who walked off with a large candle from the ladies’ restroom and the frequent disappearance of hand cream dispensers, which prompted him to install fixed dispensers. At his bistro, locally made Opolin knives with walnut handles have attracted thieves, with approximately 40 out of 90 knives stolen during the restaurant’s first year. Efforts to deter theft, including disabling knife folding mechanisms, proved insufficient. Hubert estimates losses reaching €800 in knives annually.
Similar incidents have been reported elsewhere in France. An associate at Restaurant Paul Bocuse near Lyon recounted an attempt by a man in a raincoat to steal a silver candlestick, highlighting the constant vigilance required to prevent such losses. At a three-room bed and breakfast near Lyon, Hubert resorted to labeling items with prices and charging guests for missing property. Other reports include a customer in Isère flushing a flowerpot before taking it and another trying to conceal a water jug under his shirt. High-end hotels have also faced losses, with one property reporting annual thefts of around 100 bathrobes and the complete disappearance of 150 specially selected pool towels over a single summer. In another case, a guest was caught attempting to remove a €3,000 soft toy by carrying it onto a tour coach.
A survey conducted among 500 restaurant owners by a culinary website found that 94% had experienced at least one theft, with more upscale establishments particularly vulnerable.
Laurent Lapaire, proprietor of the Michelin-starred Agapé in Paris, described ongoing struggles with customers pilfering unique items such as silver-plated napkin rings designed by André Putman for Christofle. The restaurant staff routinely remove these items before the dessert course and add any missing pieces to the customer’s bill, often resulting in their return.
Adrien Descoals, owner of Michelin-starred Origines in the Auvergne region, and its adjacent bistro and hotel, reported daily thefts affecting both his dining and lodging operations. CCTV footage has documented instances such as a woman discreetly taking a bespoke €210 knife from a neighboring table. Although initially approached politely and given the opportunity to return the item without repercussion, the customer denied wrongdoing. After reviewing surveillance footage, Descoals involved the police and pressed charges when the knife was finally returned.
As thefts rise, many restaurateurs are forced to implement stricter controls and monitoring to protect their establishments’ assets, reflecting a challenging trend within France’s highly regarded culinary sector.