Miokuru Handroll Bar, Soho

By the Editorial Team · Saturday, October 17, 2026

Miokuru Handroll Bar, opened by French restaurateur Eliott Grabli in London’s Soho, serves Japanese-inspired handrolls made with primarily British ingredients in an intimate counter-style setting. The restaurant’s unique hand-to-hand serving ritual and focus on local sourcing create a personalized dining experience that redefines conventional service and highlights regional flavors.

Miokuru Handroll Bar, a recent addition to London’s Soho dining scene, offers a distinctive experience centered around intimacy and craftsmanship. Opened a few months ago by French restaurateur Eliott Grabli, the eatery specializes in Japanese-inspired handrolls prepared with predominantly British ingredients, highlighting local fishmongers and butchers.

Guests at Miokuru are seated at a counter beneath a faux beamed ceiling, reminiscent of a traditional Kyoto machiya. Diners watch as chefs assemble handrolls, combining elements such as sea bass with jalapeño mayo, cucumber, and puffed rice, all wrapped in toasted nori. Rather than plating dishes, the chef passes the finished handroll directly from hand to hand, creating a tactile and personal moment. This subtle ritual sets the tone for a dining experience that gently challenges conventional service norms.

The menu reflects a blend of Japanese technique and regional sourcing. Handroll options include a spicy tuna roll, a salmon roll accented with puffed rice for texture, and a version pairing sliced kohlrabi with mustard greens, illustrating a commitment to fresh, inventive combinations. A standout dish is a tender, thinly sliced scallop, pressed and dressed with a spicy chili paste, toasted garlic, bright chili rings, and a sesame oil-based dressing praised for its depth and balance. Diners have the option to order this dish twice, underscoring its appeal.

The offerings also extend to various raw fish preparations, such as a tuna tartare accompanied by trout roe and a carefully executed tuna nigiri topped with caviar, demonstrating the kitchen’s facility with traditional sushi. Complementary sides include pickled cucumber, kohlrabi, and shiitake mushrooms, which provide palate-cleansing contrasts between rolls.

The dining atmosphere focuses on congeniality, with staff showing enthusiasm and a sense of shared purpose uncommon in the competitive London scene. Interactions feel casual yet attentive, and the service style encourages a relaxed enjoyment of the food and drink, which includes sips of plum sake.

Dessert features a house-made strawberry sorbet topped with a torched meringue, offering a bright and comforting conclusion to the meal. Miokuru Handroll Bar presents a refined yet approachable option in Soho, combining thoughtful sourcing, precise preparation, and a service style that enhances the connection between chef and diner.

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