London Fashion Week opened its September edition with a diverse lineup of designers showcasing collections for spring 2027. The event, which runs through the coming week, marks the return of established British brands and the introduction of new labels, highlighting the city’s blend of high street accessibility and avant-garde creativity.
Marks & Spencer made its debut at the London Fashion Week schedule, presenting its collection today at the Design Museum. Meanwhile, Alexander McQueen’s label, now helmed by designer Sean McGirr, returns to the event on Sunday night after two decades of exhibiting shows in Paris. Also notable among the returning designers is Christopher Kane, who will unveil his first collection for Mulberry on Sunday afternoon. Mulberry has not staged a show at London Fashion Week since 2020, making this a significant comeback for the British leather goods brand.
The additions underscore a rejuvenated energy in London’s fashion scene following several quieter years. Data from the British Fashion Council (BFC) indicated that buyers placed orders worth approximately £45 million at last September’s event, supporting an estimated 1.4 million jobs across the UK fashion industry.
On the opening day, emerging designers took center stage, demonstrating London’s reputation for combining theatricality with a shrewd approach to commercially viable designs. Georgian designer George Keburia, known for creating pieces worn by Lady Gaga and Rihanna, focused his spring collection on wearable items such as logo tees, workwear shirts, and broad-shouldered blazers. His range blended sporty details like tracksuit tops and sports motifs with tailored pieces, including “redingote” riding jackets and miniskirts featuring countryside imagery.
Agro Studio, a label that counts high-profile celebrities such as Beyoncé, Madonna, and K-pop stars among its clientele, also presented a collection merging athletic influences with couture craftsmanship. Their show included a mix of intricate bodiced dresses and tulle skirts alongside casual items like plaid shirts and jeans, combined with corporate suiting and ballerina tutus. One standout look featured a corset gown paired with a hoodie, exemplifying the city’s unique fusion of technical skill and street culture.
Laura Weir, chair of the British Fashion Council, remarked that London’s distinctiveness lies in the coexistence of globally renowned houses alongside independent businesses and emerging talent, a dynamic that she said is “difficult to replicate anywhere else.”
Throughout the week, established brands such as Burberry, Simone Rocha, and Erdem will headline alongside trendier labels including Chopova Lowena and Aaron Esh, the latter recently appointed creative director of high street brand All Saints. The event caters to a wide range of consumers, with M&S and the Swedish company H&M—whose latest collection was unveiled at Kensington Olympia—offering more accessible options. Burberry further celebrates its heritage with a mini-exhibition of trench coats from its archive at the Victoria and Albert Museum.