Usuki, a city located on the east coast of Kyushu in Oita Prefecture, offers a blend of historical intrigue, cultural heritage, and distinctive local cuisine that remains largely underappreciated by visitors to Japan. Approximately a 45-minute train ride from the city of Oita and about an hour from the well-known hot springs of Beppu, Usuki provides an accessible destination rich in historical sites and unique culinary traditions.

One of the city’s most notable attractions is the Usuki Stone Buddhas, a collection of 61 stone reliefs carved directly into cliffs. These magai-butsu sculptures, dating back to the late 12th century, are believed to have been commissioned by the Oga clan to ensure the prosperity of their rule. Unlike the more common bronze or wooden Buddha statues found elsewhere in Japan, these are etched into volcanic tuff rock formed from ancient eruptions of nearby Mount Aso. The carvings’ origins and exact purpose remain uncertain, although the statues were largely forgotten until the 20th century when photographer Ken Domon helped revive interest in them. The reliefs were recognized as a Special Historic Site in 1952 and designated as National Treasures in 1995. Due to the softness of the tuff and the region’s wet climate, preservation efforts are ongoing to protect the delicate sculptures from erosion.

Within the city, the Nioza Historical Path offers a glimpse into the Edo Period through its well-preserved samurai residences lining the stone-carved street. The path, created by cutting into a hill of the same volcanic tuff, historically served defensive purposes by limiting sightlines to potential invaders. Today, it features traditional manors, white-walled storehouses, temples, and gardens. The former Shinkoji temple along this route provides panoramic views of the city’s traditional rooftops and stone walls, drawing photographers nationwide. Additionally, the residence of the Inaba clan, feudal lords of Usuki during the Edo Period, remains open to the public, showcasing period furnishings and meticulously maintained gardens.

At the terminus of the Nioza Path, visitors encounter the ruins of Usuki Castle, originally built in 1556 amid the Sengoku Period’s widespread conflict. The castle, once situated on Nii Island, now sits inland due to land reclamation. While the main keep was dismantled in 1873, several stone walls, turrets, and smaller structures survive, forming the center of a public park enriched by seasonal cherry blossoms that attract visitors each spring. The castle was commissioned by Otomo Sorin, a prominent regional ruler known for his conversion to Christianity and extensive contact with European missionaries and traders, helping place Usuki on contemporary European maps.

Complementing its historical offerings, Usuki is also renowned for its safe, locally farmed fugu (puffer fish), a delicacy famed for its refined taste and the risk it carries when improperly prepared. Advances in aquaculture have enabled producers in Usuki to cultivate fugu that is free from the tetrodotoxin toxin, allowing consumers to enjoy the fish without traditional safety concerns. In Usuki, fugu is often served in thicker slices than the usual translucent sashimi, highlighting its texture and flavor, typically accompanied by house-made citrus-based ponzu sauces. The fish can also be enjoyed in various preparations, including hot pots, deep-fried, or grilled options, providing a fitting conclusion to visitors’ exploration of the city’s cultural and historical landscape.