Almaty, Kazakhstan’s former capital, is emerging as a notable destination for culinary tourism thanks to a growing movement among local chefs to revive traditional Kazakh cuisine. This trend, often referred to as “neo-nomad” cuisine, draws inspiration from the dietary customs of ancient nomadic peoples who inhabited the region prior to Soviet influence and the introduction of Islam.
At the forefront of this movement is Auyl, a restaurant located near Medeu, the Soviet-era speed-skating rink perched at 1,700 meters above sea level. Auyl’s menu emphasizes ingredients historically prevalent among Kazakh nomads, including water, flour, dairy, and meat. The restaurant avoids imported elements such as olive oil, relying instead on animal fats, consistent with ancestral culinary practices. Signature dishes include marrow bones served with lazjan, a spicy chili sauce; smoked horsemeat; tandoor-baked flatbreads; and grilled trout accompanied by kaymak, a rich, thick cream favored across Central Asia and broader Turkic cultures.
The building housing Auyl reflects the country’s heritage as well, featuring 1970s-era murals and interior design inspired by traditional nomadic yurts with felt decorations and carved woodwork. The site formerly served as the summer residence of Kazakhstan’s former leader, Dinmukhamed Kunayev. The décor complements views of the nearby Tian Shan mountains, integrating the natural landscape into the dining experience.
Similar culinary innovation can be found at Ogonek in downtown Almaty. Once a Soviet-era ice-cream parlor, the establishment now offers distinctive dishes such as horsemeat lasagne and baked cheesecake made with shubat—fermented camel’s milk, a Central Asian staple. Another notable venue, Aqqu (“white swan”), a café rebuilt after a devastating fire 25 years ago, serves traditional items including millet porridge and horsemeat sausages, further highlighting the emphasis on indigenous flavors.
For years, Almaty’s upscale dining scene was dominated by international cuisines like Italian, Japanese, and Turkish, which reflected more globalized tastes. However, the recent focus on local ingredients and ancestral recipes marks a significant shift toward celebrating Kazakhstan’s cultural and culinary heritage, appealing to both residents and travelers seeking authentic regional flavors. This renaissance of neo-nomad cuisine offers a distinct contrast to the city’s past restaurant trends and signals a broader revival of Kazakh identity through food.