Nigel Cabourn, a British menswear designer renowned for his focus on heritage materials and vintage military-inspired apparel, died on June 11 at his home in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England. He was 76. The cause of death was prostate cancer, according to his daughter Sophie Cabourn, co-owner of the vintage retailer Re:bourn.

Cabourn was part of a wave of British designers who emerged during the late 1960s and early 1970s, alongside well-known figures such as Vivienne Westwood, Margaret Howell, and Paul Smith. Unlike many of his contemporaries who gravitated toward London’s vibrant fashion scene, Cabourn remained rooted in northern England—a choice mirrored in his design philosophy. His collections emphasized durable fabrics, muted colors, and a timeless quality, often crafted in British workshops and traditional garment factories.

Known for sourcing authentic materials, Cabourn famously sought out original manufacturers of vintage garments, such as the makers of cold-weather military parkas used during World War II. “I want it real. Not fashion,” he said in a 2011 interview, underscoring his commitment to authenticity rather than transient trends.

Cabourn’s Newcastle studio was a repository of his passions, housing over 4,000 vintage clothing items alongside countless books, magazines, and advertisements. These served as constant sources of inspiration for his collections. He favored rough, functional fabrics like Harris tweed and ventile—a water-resistant cotton weave once employed by the Royal Air Force during WWII.

While for many years his work appealed to a niche audience, the mid-2000s saw a surge in interest for authentic and heritage-driven products, boosting his mainstream recognition. Menswear writer Derek Guy noted that enthusiasts on fashion forums sought out Cabourn’s use of British ventile, sparking wider curiosity and appreciation for the fabric.

Cabourn’s dedication to historical accuracy was evident in his 2003 collection commemorating the 50th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary’s ascent of Mount Everest. He traveled to Christchurch, New Zealand, to study Hillary’s original parka, ultimately reproducing it nearly identically for the Ascent of Cabourn line.

Born Nigel John Cabourn on October 7, 1949, in Scunthorpe, north central England, he moved to Peterlee near Newcastle as a child. His parents, Edith and John Cabourn, worked in the local post office. Cabourn’s interest in clothing design began in his teenage years, including an early project repurposing curtains into pants. He launched his first label, Cricket, while studying at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design in the early 1970s.

The cultural turbulence of the late 1960s and early 1970s—marked by pop music, anti-war demonstrations, and the Vietnam War—influenced his early aesthetic, particularly the utilitarian features of military fatigue jackets worn by U.S. Marines.

Cabourn’s style began to take a more distinct military and heritage direction after a colleague, Paul Smith, brought him a British army jacket in 1978. “Paul said to me, ‘Nige, this is what you should do,’” Cabourn recalled, prompting him to focus on army-inspired garments.

The company rebranded to Nigel Cabourn in the mid-1980s, a shift that coincided with growing success in Japan, where the brand now operates 11 stores.

Cabourn was married twice. His first marriage to Val Smith ended in divorce in 1983. In 1987, he married Janet Bell, who currently co-owns and manages the Nigel Cabourn company. He is survived by Janet, their daughter Sophie, two children from his first marriage—Ben and Lucy—and three grandchildren.