A retired film critic once led a group of colleagues on an impromptu afternoon break to the Shakespeare Hotel, a venue with a long history of drawing a diverse crowd. On this occasion, the critic’s theatrical flair was on full display as he announced their arrival with a loud call for wine, evoking the spirit of a classic adventure tale. Despite initial expectations of a raucous scene, the atmosphere remained subdued, marked only by casual greetings exchanged between the visitors and a few regular patrons.
Wine has long been a subject of personal passion for the author, who acknowledges having spent decades discussing it, often delighting in the company of true connoisseurs who temper his enthusiasm with grounded expertise. The social dynamics around wine appreciation can sometimes tip into pretension, a tendency the author counters by recalling a favorite cartoon from James Thurber, the esteemed writer and illustrator. Thurber’s 1937 caricature humorously depicted a host extolling a modest domestic Burgundy with exaggerated flourish, gently mocking the overly grandiose wine critics of the era.
The author also reflects on a personal connection to the wine world through family ties. Sally, the daughter of Len Evans, an influential figure credited with modernizing Australia’s wine culture and elevating its global profile, embodies both talent and dedication within the industry. Evans himself was known for his candid writing and memorable dining venues that celebrated Australian wine. Sally has grown into a respected expert, whose deep knowledge and commitment serve as a reminder that in the wine business, humility is essential. Experts and enthusiasts alike must remain aware that there is always someone with deeper insight present.
Drawing inspiration from British wine merchant Harry Waugh’s attitude towards wine expertise, the author emphasizes the importance of unpretentious knowledge. Waugh, who consumed vast quantities of French wine and once joked about confidently distinguishing Bordeaux from Burgundy “not since lunchtime,” epitomized a blend of encyclopedic understanding and approachable modesty. This perspective offers a counterpoint to excessive seriousness in wine discussions, encouraging a more relaxed, balanced appreciation.
