In Kyoto’s historic Gion district, a discreet restaurant known as Niku no Takumi Miyoshi—commonly referred to as Nikushi no Miyoshi—has earned a distinguished reputation among connoisseurs of Wagyu beef. Established by chef Tsutomu Ito, the intimate venue has attracted both local and international attention for its meticulous approach to Japan’s famed beef, culminating in Michelin recognition. Building on this success, Ito has since launched additional enterprises: q+M, a members-only French-style restaurant in Kyoto specializing in Wagyu, and Kanegura, a casual hotpot eatery.

Ito recently expanded his culinary footprint internationally with the opening of Gyu+Bar by Miyoshi in Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay. This new establishment blends traditional Kyoto Wagyu techniques with Japanese-French wood-fired brassiere dining, offering dishes such as Wagyu sashimi, consommé, sushi, shabu-shabu, and wood-fired preparations.

Remarkably, Ito’s expertise developed outside formal culinary education. Born and raised in Kyoto, he studied business administration and initially pursued bartending, working in his mother’s bar and a local izakaya during his university years. A pivotal moment occurred when a friend introduced him to freshly slaughtered beef, sparking his fascination with the distinct qualities of ultra-fresh meat, diverging from the conventional belief that beef must be aged to enhance flavor.

In 2004, Ito transformed his family’s bar, located in his childhood home, into a casual dining venue that gradually gained acclaim for its Wagyu offerings. With no initial experience in butchery, Ito partnered with a colleague who managed meat sourcing through daily visits to slaughterhouses. Ito devoted himself to constant tasting and experimentation to refine techniques for enhancing taste and texture, learning extensively through trial and error as well as from veteran butchers and producers.

Ito emphasizes the importance of direct relationships with farmers, a relatively recent development given Japan’s typical separation of premium beef distribution through auctions. This direct sourcing enables tailored feedback on cattle rearing, including preferences for marbling and aging periods. His primary supplier is Okazaki Farm in Shiga Prefecture, known for its Omi Wagyu, where cattle are raised in stress-free, individual pens to avoid bullying, particularly since Ito prefers virgin female cows for their distinctive flavor and lean cut profile. The farm’s unique feeding methods, involving cooked millet and barnyard grass rather than conventional dry feed, along with an extended raising period of 40 to 50 months, contribute to the meat’s quality.

Ito has also embraced traditional butchers’ customs, incorporating their unique offal preparation techniques into his menu. Initially averse to liver sashimi, he pioneered methods to eliminate off-putting odors without heavy masking agents, such as rinsing and blood draining procedures, and explored precise cutting techniques to enhance texture and sweetness.

Further innovations include applying Edo-period curing methods, like kombujime, to Wagyu ox tongue, resulting in a tender, sashimi-like texture by curing in kelp. Additionally, Ito developed a dashi-poached tenderloin preparation where lean cuts are immersed briefly in a dashi broth made from premium kombu and dried bonito, allowing fat to melt to ideal softness while imparting subtle marine flavors.

Throughout his culinary process, Ito adheres to washoku principles, utilizing custom knives for optimal slicing, crafting clear consommés from beef bones and lean cuts, and treating Wagyu as a seasonal ingredient harmonized with traditional accompaniments such as matsutake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and fresh wasabi.

Despite his accomplishments, Ito maintains a philosophy of continual inquiry, frequently reassessing his techniques to pursue even greater refinement in flavor and presentation.