In a modest corner of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, an octogenarian continues to uphold a family tradition that has lasted over five decades. Wong Pek Yoke, 84, operates a small stall in Petaling Street offering two classic Malaysian treats: homemade kaya Swiss roll and kaya kok, also known as kaya puff.
The business began in 1974 as a pushcart venture run by Wong and her late husband. Initially, her husband managed the baking while Wong focused on selling the pastries. Today, their son has taken over the baking duties, following in his father’s footsteps, while Wong remains at the stall engaging with customers. The family’s recipes and preparation methods have remained largely unchanged throughout the years.
Wong rises at 1 a.m. daily to begin preparing the kaya and pastries from scratch. Kaya is a traditional coconut jam made using santan (coconut milk), eggs, sugar, and pandan leaves, known for its fragrant aroma and rich texture. Each day’s kaya and pastries are freshly made in the early hours to ensure quality and freshness for customers.
The kaya Swiss roll features a soft, fluffy sponge cake enveloping a layer of the creamy coconut jam. The cake offers a subtle eggy note that complements the smooth, lightly sweetened kaya, producing a balanced flavor that is not overpowering. This combination makes the Swiss roll a favored choice for breakfast or afternoon tea.
The kaya kok presents a different texture experience, with a crisp and buttery outer pastry encasing a generous filling of the coconut jam. The contrast between the flaky crust and the soft, lightly sweet kaya creates a satisfying bite that many find addictive.
Wong’s stall is located in a tucked-away nook off Jalan Yap Ah Loy and operates from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday through Saturday. The kaya Swiss roll is sold at RM2.50 each, while the kaya kok costs RM2 per piece. The stall accepts only cash payments, and customers can place orders in advance by calling the provided phone number.
As one of the few remaining hawkers preserving this traditional style of kaya pastry-making, Wong’s stall offers a nostalgic taste of Malaysian culinary heritage, sustained through the dedication of three generations.
