The recent release of the Teochew-language film *Dear You* has sparked renewed interest in traditional Teochew kueh, particularly the pan-fried bo bee kueh depicted in the movie. The film, which centers on themes of migration, love, and family ties within the Chinese diaspora, features the protagonist turning to selling bo bee kueh after her family inn in Bangkok is destroyed by fire. This portrayal has led to an increase in demand for similar kueh varieties at local hawker stalls.
At Jalan Kukoh Teochew Kueh, co-owner Tan Choon Huay, 71, reported a 10 percent rise in orders for koo chye kueh since the film’s release in June. Traditionally, soon kueh was the first to sell out daily, but now koo chye kueh, which features garlic chives in its filling, is often sold out by mid-afternoon. Tan highlighted the nostalgic connection her family has to Teochew kueh, tracing back to her grandmother who emigrated from Shantou and made kueh based on family recipes. Her family’s stall continues to maintain traditional preparation methods, balancing modern conveniences like an electric dough mixer with hand-kneading and ingredient selection to uphold quality standards.
Similarly, Yoon’s Traditional Teochew Kueh at Upper Aljunied Lane has also seen a boost in orders since the film’s release. Co-owner Qara Yoon, 47, and executive chef Lim Lee Hoi, 75, noted the need to increase production by 20 percent on weekends and 10 percent on weekdays to meet the higher demand. Their experience tasting authentic bo bee kueh on a trip to Jieyang in Guangdong—one of the film’s shooting locations—added dimension to their appreciation of the delicacy. They emphasized the delicate texture achieved by pan-frying the sweet potato flour skin to create a crispy exterior with a tender interior.
Bo bee kueh differs from the more commonly found koo chye kueh primarily in the flour used for its wrapper; bo bee kueh is made with sweet potato flour without rice flour, whereas koo chye kueh uses rice flour for its skin. This distinction results in a different texture and handling properties during preparation.
Not all traditional kueh sellers have embraced the bo bee kueh trend, however. Desmond Koh, 68, owner of Yong’s Teochew Kueh on Upper Serangoon Road, experimented with making bo bee kueh after watching the film but found the sweet potato flour dough challenging to work with and the resultant texture too chewy for his preference. His family recipes, passed down from his late mother from Puning, focus on koo chye kueh made with rice flour skin and ingredients such as garlic chives but no dried prawns. Koh’s business, which began in 1998 and now operates two outlets, emphasizes handmade quality with traditional techniques including pork lard in the filling. He expressed cautious optimism about the renewed interest from younger customers, while acknowledging the difficulties of sustaining such heritage food businesses amid modern challenges like high rent and labor shortages.
Across these vendors, there is a shared sense of pride in preserving Teochew culinary traditions, even as the next generation shows limited interest in continuing the craft. The renewed visibility provided by *Dear You* has momentarily revitalized appreciation for these customary foods, keeping alive the skills and stories embedded in their preparation and consumption.
