In February 2022, British adventurer Charlie Walker embarked on a challenging hiking expedition in northern Siberia, intending to traverse approximately 1,000 miles along the frozen Lena River and the Laptev Sea to the Arctic port of Tiksi. His journey coincided with the onset of Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, altering the nature of his trip and imposing unforeseen risks.

Walker, who has previously documented extensive travels including a 43,000-mile bicycle journey across three continents and solo treks through remote deserts, arrived in Yakutsk equipped with skis, sled, and camping gear for the sub-zero conditions, with temperatures plummeting to -50°C. Despite a UK Foreign Office travel advisory warning against visits to Russia, Walker decided to continue, citing the geographic remoteness of Yakutsk from the conflict zones.

Throughout his trek along Siberia’s ice roads, known as zimniki, Walker encountered a range of locals, including long-haul truck drivers and indigenous Sakha and Eveni peoples. Hospitality was evident amid the harsh environment, with Walker sharing meals such as grilled horse ribs, reindeer dishes, and regional specialties. Yet, ideological views expressed by those he met were heavily influenced by Kremlin narratives. Many espoused beliefs in Ukrainian corruption, Nazi control, or the notion that Ukraine “belongs to Russia,” reflecting the pervasive reach of state propaganda even in isolated communities.

Walker’s journey, initially conceived as an adventurous exploration of Siberian wilderness and culture, soon took on a more complicated dimension. His presence drew the attention of Russia’s security service, the FSB, particularly as Tiksi functioned as a strategic military location. Accusations against him included “committing journalism” and espionage, leading to increasing scrutiny on both him and locals who interacted with him. Despite substantial personal risk—including documenting anti-war statements on a Dictaphone, an act punishable by long prison sentences—Walker pressed forward but was ultimately detained.

He spent a month in a detention center awaiting deportation before being expelled from Russia. Reflecting on his experience, Walker referenced a Russian maxim about accepting consequences knowingly, underscoring the gravity of his ordeal. His account also highlighted environmental degradation across the Siberian landscape, describing growing sinkholes, decaying infrastructure, and vast areas devastated by wildfires.

While moments of natural beauty and local kindness punctuated the journey, Walker's narrative paints a stark portrait of a region marked by political tension, surveillance, and hardship. He is now barred from returning to Russia, closing a chapter on an extraordinary and perilous expedition through one of the world’s most remote frontiers at a time of geopolitical upheaval.