In Istanbul, the age-old tradition of distributing lokma, sweet fried dough balls soaked in syrup, continues to serve as a meaningful way to honor the deceased and bring communities together. Across the sprawling metropolis of 15.7 million residents, mobile vendors like 72-year-old Niyazi Dumlu, known locally as “Papa Doughnuts” or Lokmaci Baba, travel with their frying equipment to prepare and share lokma in memory of loved ones.
Last fall, an 83-year-old widow marked the anniversary of her husband’s death by hiring Mr. Dumlu to make 500 servings of lokma outside a mosque. After prayers concluded, mourners, passersby, and onlookers lined up to receive the warm, sweet treats, simultaneously offering prayers for the deceased, consistent with a longstanding Turkish custom. The practice reflects a belief that eating lokma and praying for someone, whether personally known or not, confers blessings upon the departed.
Mr. Dumlu explained that lokma’s portability and ease of preparation make it a preferred alternative to home-cooked meals traditionally distributed to honor the dead. He frequently produces between 1,000 and 2,500 portions on occasion, with his truck’s LED sign inviting recipients to pray for the souls commemorated.
The doughnut maker’s clientele spans diverse backgrounds, including families memorializing relatives lost to violence, police officers honoring fallen colleagues, and fans commemorating cultural figures. Notably, fans of Turkish soap operas have arranged lokma distributions for characters who passed on screen, while others have marked the deaths of international celebrities, such as filmmaker David Lynch and musician Ozzy Osbourne.
Mr. Dumlu’s own life story mirrors the hardships faced by many he serves. Abandoned by his parents as a child in eastern Turkey, he moved to Istanbul at age 10, where he learned the confectionery trade as a baklava apprentice. Over his career, he experimented with creative marketing, including sending baklava trays personalized with messages to Turkish politicians and foreign dignitaries, such as Hillary Clinton, who acknowledged his gift with gratitude.
After losing his baklava shop in the 1990s due to urban redevelopment, Mr. Dumlu shifted focus to producing and selling lokma from a mobile truck starting around 2010, a move that eventually improved his financial situation. He involved his wife, Muskinaz, in the business, dubbing her “Mama Doughnuts.” The couple had two children but faced personal struggles, including health issues for Muskinaz, who succumbed to complications in August 2022 after battling COVID-19 and related ailments.
Mr. Dumlu continues to honor her memory through his work. On the anniversary of her passing, he parked his truck near his home to distribute lokma, accompanied by photos and prayer books bearing her name. Despite his sorrow, he finds solace in the act of sharing sweets and encouraging prayers from strangers.
Other families in Istanbul similarly use lokma to commemorate lost loved ones. Forty-two-year-old businessman Kadir Ilhan distributed 2,500 portions on a busy street in memory of his wife, who died of breast cancer in April after a years-long fight. He sought to reach as many people as possible beyond traditional home meals, turning mourning into a communal experience.
The custom demonstrates how, for many in Istanbul, the simple act of sharing lokma bridges grief and communal hope, transforming loss into a moment of shared sweetness and remembrance across the city’s bustling streets.