Sir Paul Smith has returned to his roots by incorporating British fabrics and manufacturing into his latest spring/summer 2027 collection, presented recently in his Milan showroom. Known for his long-standing influence in menswear, Smith’s renewed focus on homegrown materials marks a significant shift in his approach to design and production.
At the Milan showroom, housed in a multi-level concrete building, Smith showcased garments crafted from British and Irish textiles, including lightweight Donegal tweed made by Magee in Ireland. He highlighted the softness and versatility of these textiles, demonstrating a safari jacket and a lightweight Scottish tweed jacket, which he described as a "miracle" given Scotland’s historic association with heavier tweeds.
Smith explained that the fabrics on display in Milan are far removed from the heavier tweeds of the past, now featuring lighter weights and innovative finishes such as brushing and steaming to enhance softness. This evolution in fabric technology reflects changing menswear trends, as suits are worn less formally and heating systems reduce the need for heavy materials.
For Smith, this revival represents a broader push to support British mills and clothing manufacturers, aligning with a reported resurgence in demand for country wear. “The boss of a huge American fashion company” recently discussed the growing popularity of this style, traditionally rooted in UK fabric and outerwear heritage, which Smith sees as an opportunity for reintroducing high-quality British textiles to the global market.
Smith’s commitment to British manufacturing is deeply personal and historical. When he launched his business in 1970 in a small Nottingham shop, all Paul Smith garments were made in the UK. By the mid-1980s, despite becoming an international brand, the majority of production remained within a 100-mile radius of Nottingham. His early career in menswear retail and production management across Midlands factories informed his dedication to quality and craftsmanship.
His new autobiography, *Threads: My Life in Style*, sheds light on his journey from a local entrepreneur to a globally recognized designer known for dressing actors such as Gary Oldman, Colin Firth, and Daniel Day-Lewis. Smith’s creative interests extend beyond clothing into collaborations with iconic British vehicles including the Mini, Triumph Bonneville motorbike, and Land Rover Defender.
For Smith, this renewed emphasis on British style and manufacturing continues to celebrate individuality, a hallmark of his design philosophy and a distinctive element of UK cultural identity in fashion.
