Paul Theroux’s latest travelogue, *True North: On the Road in Canada*, offers a nuanced exploration of Canadian identity through the lens of personal history and contemporary observations. Published in 2023, the book traces Theroux’s journey across Canada, beginning with his ancestral roots in Yamaska, Quebec, where his forebears settled more than three centuries ago. What began as an investigation into his family heritage ultimately evolved into a broader examination of Canada’s social and political fabric.
Theroux, 85, frames *True North* as his final travel book, marking the conclusion of a career that has taken him from Patagonia to China and, more recently, across North America. His approach eschews traditional tourist experiences in favor of candid conversations with a diverse array of Canadians. He seeks to understand how ordinary people perceive their country, especially in relation to their much larger and more globally dominant neighbor, the United States.
A key theme of the book is the often one-sided nature of the Canada-U.S. relationship. Theroux observes that while Canadians are highly aware of American culture and politics, the reverse is far less true. He quotes Canadians who describe their country as “a blur to most Americans” and hears a variety of perspectives on differences between the two nations. Common contrasts include Canadians’ reputed deference to authority and emphasis on collective welfare, while more pointed commentary emerges on American gun culture and societal fears—a topic highlighted during Theroux’s encounters in Belleville, Ontario.
The travelogue also captures a moment of political upheaval when Theroux visited Ottawa in early 2022 amid the "Freedom Convoy" protests. The trucker-led demonstrations, opposed to pandemic restrictions, fomented significant unrest in the capital and included calls to overturn the government. Theroux notes the protesters’ lack of visible diversity despite the prominence of Pakistani and Sikh truckers in Canada, and records the considerable financial support the convoy received from American donors. Many Canadians he interviewed condemned the protests, viewing them as a threat to their democratic institutions.
Theroux situates these tensions within a broader context of Canadian patriotism that has been galvanized by political provocations, including disparaging remarks from former U.S. President Donald Trump. Canadians expressed both anger and a renewed sense of unity in response to perceived American insults, underscoring the importance they place on fairness and mutual respect in their longtime alliance.
At the same time, Theroux critically examines Canada’s own challenges. He visits Indigenous communities and recounts painful accounts relating to the country's history of residential schools, a system that forcibly removed Indigenous children from their families. Theroux also reflects on Canada’s multicultural approach, suggesting that the emphasis on maintaining distinct ethnic communities may contribute to social fragmentation.
The narrative is impressionistic and personal, blending travelogue, history, and literary commentary. Theroux praises Canadian authors such as Robertson Davies and Margaret Atwood while expressing less enthusiasm for Alice Munro’s work. His prose combines charm with occasional grumpiness, portraying both the strengths and contradictions within Canadian society.
*True North* completes Theroux’s North American travel trilogy, following *Deep South* and *On the Plain of Snakes*, the latter recounting his experiences in Mexico. As he concludes his journey, Theroux expresses an enduring affection for Canada, recalling a “spiritual experience” during a drive through British Columbia and reflecting on the symbolic Peace Arch at the U.S.-Canada border, which bears the inscription, “Children of a Common Mother — May These Gates Never Be Closed.”