Perilla restaurant, a fixture on a London corner for the past decade, continues to draw acclaim for its approachable yet refined dining experience. Established by head chef Ben Marks, formerly of Claridge’s and the Square, and business partner Matt Emmerson, known for Polpo, the restaurant recently re-entered the National Restaurant Awards’ Top 100, ranking 43rd. This recognition underscores Perilla’s sustained appeal in a competitive culinary landscape.

Located in a bright, plant-filled dining room, the restaurant maintains a relaxed atmosphere despite its elevated offering. Although the venue initially appeared quiet during an early summer dinner reservation, it quickly filled with a diverse mix of diners, including groups of friends, families, and couples, creating a lively and convivial setting. The establishment is described as an expert balance between casual dining and fine cuisine, often frequented by local patrons as well as visitors.

Perilla’s set menu, priced at £66, includes snacks, bread, a starter, a main course, and dessert. This package provides a value proposition relative to other restaurants where individual main courses alone approach similar prices. Guests are also offered a selection of cocktails, such as the Maria spritz—a savory blend of tequila, celery bitters, and a flavor profile akin to savory wine—and a mint julep, lending a seasonal touch to the experience.

A hallmark of Perilla’s menu is its focus on small snacks served before the main offerings, reflecting a broader trend in London’s dining scene to replace traditional hors d’oeuvres with more informal “snacks.” These items emphasize sustainability and creativity; for example, one dish repurposes slightly stale sourdough bread topped with moules marinieres and chopped mussels, while another features lightly battered cod cheeks accompanied by a chipshop curry sauce, pickles, and tangy gooseberry-enhanced tartar. Additionally, a stuffed cabbage dish—stuffed with spring greens and spices and served atop whey sauce—was ordered a la carte and praised for its complex flavor reminiscent of late-night street food.

Following the snacks, bread is served fresh, reinforcing the meal’s progression. The wine list highlights natural, low-intervention options, including an Austrian Grüner Veltliner which divided opinion at the table due to its pronounced character. Starters and mains maintain the kitchen’s theme of combining precision with richness, as exemplified by a minestrone soup presented with a variety of textures and a trout dish served with whey beurre blanc, heritage cucumber slices, and crisp kiwi. Desserts include a delicate strawberry and lemon verbena millefeuille and the restaurant’s signature chocolate, hazelnut, and walnut pavê, noted for its dense, chocolatey texture and date garnish.

Though Perilla adopts the language of a neighborhood restaurant, its quality and recognition position it well beyond a typical local eatery. It stands as an example of successful fine dining delivered with warmth and approachability, serving a diverse clientele in a setting that blends sophistication with a casual charm.