In north London’s Kentish Town, Philippine cuisine is gaining traction, with the ube ice-cream sandwich emerging as one of the most sought-after items at the café Mama & Sons. Ube, a purple yam native to the Philippines, has seen a surge of interest in the United Kingdom, with its vibrant color and distinct sweet, nutty taste inspiring a variety of culinary creations from lattes to pastries. Major coffee chains, including Starbucks, Costa Coffee, and Pret A Manger, have recently introduced limited-edition ube-flavored drinks, reflecting its rising global popularity.

Despite this enthusiasm abroad, the Philippine government recently imposed a ban on fresh ube exports. Agriculture Secretary Francisco Pe Tiu Laurel Jr. cited a shortage of planting material and concerns about preserving control over the crop as key reasons behind the decision. "We severely lack planting material ourselves, and we don’t want to export it to countries that could use Philippine ube varieties to compete with us," he explained. The ban, which came into effect this year, exempts processed and frozen ube products, which are primarily used in international markets.

Omar Shah, owner of Mama & Sons and several other Filipino eateries in London, expressed concerns about the impact of the export restrictions, noting difficulties in sourcing fresh ube despite having enough stock for the next year. He acknowledged that while prices for ube were already high, further increases could see the ingredient become a luxury product. Customers like Jonas Salvador and José James, both in their twenties and enthusiastic about ube’s versatility, underscore the ingredient’s significance as a cultural and culinary staple.

Data from the Philippine Statistics Authority shows ube production in the country increased by 17% during the first half of the year, reaching 5,660 tonnes. However, Secretary Laurel highlighted that production growth is outpacing the industry’s capacity to sustain it, prompting government focus on expanding domestic planting before scaling ube as an export commodity.

Food scholar Guillermo “Ige” Ramos, founder of the Ugnayan Center for Filipino Gastronomy, underscored the risks of overexploitation. He argued that international demand has pressured local farmers to exhaust their supplies of raw tubers for export, thereby depleting the planting stock necessary for future cultivation. Ramos emphasized ube’s cultural and genetic importance, describing it as “an ancestral root crop whose genetic continuity is under threat.”

Industry experts link ube’s popularity partly to social media exposure, driven by the ingredient’s striking hue. Jennifer Creevy, content director at WGSN Food & Drink, noted the “matcha effect” in boosting demand for visually appealing ingredients like ube. Amid supply concerns, Shah highlighted alternative Filipino ingredients such as calamansi and pandan, which also offer unique flavors and colors, providing potential substitutes if ube availability declines.

For many, like Shah and his family, ube remains a familiar and cherished element of Filipino heritage. Shah reflected on its longstanding presence in Filipino culture, saying, “It’s never been a trend for them; it’s just something they’ve had all their life. So to see it outside, it’s nice. To see the flag being flown.”