As southern Europe grapples with rising temperatures and extended droughts linked to climate change, one Portuguese wine estate has shifted to harvesting grapes at night to beat the daytime heat. At Herdade das Servas, located in the Alentejo region about 150 kilometers east of Lisbon, workers equipped with headlamps and pruning shears gather grapes under the stars, avoiding the intense daytime highs that now regularly reach 40 degrees Celsius.

This practice, fully adopted last year after a trial in 2024, addresses both labor conditions and winemaking quality amid Portugal's increasingly oppressive summers. Maria Jeronima Mendes, a 70-year-old field worker who has been harvesting since childhood, said that despite initial hesitation, the team, comprising workers from Portugal, Romania, and Southeast Asia, has adapted well to nighttime shifts. “Working at night isn’t more tiring, it’s just a matter of habit,” she commented.

The shift to night harvesting responds directly to the climate crisis, with the European Union's climate monitoring agency reporting that western Europe experienced its warmest summer on record, and August was the hottest month globally. The Alentejo region’s grape harvest began two weeks earlier than usual this year, aligning with trends seen across southern Europe, including Spain, Italy, and Greece, where wine producers face similar environmental challenges.

Renato Neves, director of production at Herdade das Servas, explained that nighttime temperatures around midnight hover near 28 degrees Celsius, considerably cooler than peak daytime heat. The cooler conditions also benefit winemaking, as grapes arrive fresher at the cellar, allowing fermentation to start later and promoting better aroma extraction. Additionally, the estate has altered vineyard management practices to retain soil moisture, such as leaving weeds at the base of vines to combat increasing dryness.

Harvested grapes are taken to the estate’s vats at daybreak for processing. The nocturnal schedule allows the cellar to operate at full capacity during daylight when the estate’s solar panels generate maximum energy, further supporting sustainable production.

Oenologist Rui Reguinga views the expansion of night harvesting across Mediterranean climates as part of a broader transition toward more sustainable viticulture, emphasizing its necessity under current climate pressures. However, Tiago Macena, another expert specializing in Portugal’s native grape varieties, noted limitations in widespread adoption. Macena pointed out that night harvesting demands specific organizational capabilities and a workforce willing to work nocturnal hours, making it primarily viable for larger estates in southern Portugal. Smaller producers in the northern regions have yet to embrace this approach, underscoring the challenges in scaling such adaptations across the industry.