Ralph Lauren launched New York Fashion Week on Wednesday with the debut of his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, marking the first event under the industry’s new full ban on fur on the runway. The 86-year-old designer presented a lineup centered around his iconic preppy style, utilizing a color scheme dominated by navy blue and white, accented with gold, beige, and dusty rose tones.

The show, held on the eve of the official start of Fashion Week, attracted high-profile attendees including Oscar-winning actresses Viola Davis and Ariana DeBose, as well as actress and singer Cynthia Erivo. Lauren’s collection aimed to reinterpret traditional concepts of elegance by blending historical shapes with modern touches. Key looks featured suit trousers paired with leather jackets, boater hats, and ballet slippers, alongside gowns suited for red carpet occasions.

On the same evening, US fashion brand Coach staged the only other runway presentation, offering a more subdued opening ahead of the week’s upcoming schedule. Known primarily for its handbags and leather goods, Coach also reported strong recent sales, reflecting broader trends among accessible luxury labels amid a cooling global luxury market. Both Ralph Lauren and Coach have posted double-digit revenue growth in the past quarter, bucking the market slowdown.

New York Fashion Week is set to intensify from Thursday, with the unveiling of Henry Zankov’s first collection as artistic director at Diane von Furstenberg among the highlights. Other scheduled shows include Proenza Schouler, Christian Siriano, Tory Burch, and Tommy Hilfiger, the latter gaining attention recently for an advertising campaign featuring NFL star Travis Kelce, who is married to singer Taylor Swift.

Further notable presentations during the week include Michael Kors and Calvin Klein on Friday, Carolina Herrera on Monday, and Thom Browne closing out the event on Tuesday. Overall, about 70 collections will be showcased in New York before the fashion circuit moves on to London, Milan, and Paris.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the organization behind New York Fashion Week, officially enforced the ban on animal fur at its events starting this month as part of a growing movement toward sustainability and ethical fashion practices. Ralph Lauren’s fur-free collection underscores this shift within the industry’s most high-profile platforms.