Greek wine culture is experiencing a notable revival, marked by renewed interest in the country’s indigenous grape varieties and the stories that surround them. At a recent tasting event in London, a range of Greek wines demonstrated both the progress of the nation’s viticulture and the unique character of its terroir.

One standout was the Lagorthi 2021 from Rouvalis Winery, a dry white wine grown on the steep, challenging slopes of the Aigialeia region. The Lagorthi grape itself is rare, with vineyards totaling no more than 14 hectares, and was nearly extinct by the end of the 20th century. Such revival efforts reflect a broader trend in Greece, where many native varieties faced decline before being rediscovered and cultivated anew.

A prime example is malagousia, an aromatic white grape that was almost lost until its resurgence in the 1990s, notably in Epanomi by Gerovassiliou, a producer credited with much of its recent acclaim. The 2019 Gerovassiliou malagousia, featuring citrus and peach notes, illustrates how these rediscovered grapes can produce distinctive, high-quality wines.

The Greek wine industry has come a long way since the turn of the millennium. When Vangelis Gerovassiliou began rehabilitating his family vineyards, the country lagged behind other southern European producers such as Italy and Spain. Since then, Greek wines, particularly dry whites from Santorini, have become emblematic of the country’s renaissance. Santorini’s assyrtiko wines—known for their mineral-driven profile and vibrant acidity—draw from ancient vines rooted in volcanic soil. Producers including Estate Argyros, Gaia Estate, and Paris Sigalas have established these wines at the forefront of modern Greek winemaking. However, rising demand, drought conditions, and the naturally low yields of old vines have contributed to increased prices and limited availability.

Despite this, Greek wine offerings span a wide spectrum of price points and styles. More affordable options, such as the Co-op Irresistible Assyrtiko 2024 from Macedonia, retail for under £10 and are becoming more common in supermarkets.

Other wines highlighted at the London tasting illustrated the diversity of Greece’s viticultural heritage. These included the Foundi Estate Xinomavro 2021 from Naoussa, a dry red with wild herb and dried cherry notes, and the Kontozisis 2019 Sun White Malagousia from Karditsa, featuring stone fruit and floral aromas. Novus Winery presented two notable selections: the 2019 A Priori moschofilero, with refined acidity and aromatic complexity, and the 2020 Cultura Nemea, a red dominated by plum and pomegranate from the agiorgitiko grape.

Agiorgitiko, associated with the mythological hero Hercules, is celebrated both for its flavor and its legendary status as the wine Hercules purportedly drank after defeating the Nemean lion. This blend of rich cultural history and contemporary winemaking innovation exemplifies the current renaissance of Greek wine, which continues to capture the attention of wine enthusiasts worldwide.