Located in a quieter stretch of Greenwich Village, Somssi offers a dining experience marked by subtle complexities and a blend of cultural influences. Since opening in June, the restaurant has drawn attention for its understated approach to European-inspired cuisine infused with Korean and other international elements.
Somssi occupies a nostalgic space off busy Bleecker Street, featuring an interior decorated with eclectic touches, including thrift-shop lamps and vintage textiles. The atmosphere is intimate and unpretentious, with a small bar and closely arranged tables that encourage social interaction.
The restaurant is the product of Ahris Kim’s vision, a hospitality professional with roots spanning Seoul, Indonesia, the Philippines, and the American Midwest. She joined forces with Junghyun and Ellia Park, the couple behind NA:EUN Hospitality, which operates notable Korean establishments Atoboy, Naro, and Atomix. Whereas their other ventures focus on refined Korean tasting menus, Somssi takes a broader and somewhat more casual approach, navigating a menu that crosses boundaries while reflecting immigrant experiences.
The dishes at Somssi showcase inventive combinations. Among the highlights is an ox tongue steak prepared Wagyu-style: brined, confited in beef tallow, and grilled with a yakitori glaze. While tender, the dish received mixed reactions for a romesco sauce accompanying it that critics found somewhat lacking in balance. Another standout is a curry-fried rice featuring a mix of mushrooms topped with a crisp egg, praised for its precise seasoning.
Classic elements are reimagined, as seen in the Xinjiang-style mutton chop, reverse-seared and paired with a rich jus made from veal, chicken, and lamb bones. The dish has been noted as a crucial component that complements the fries, which arrive uniquely served in paper bags with options like gamtae-infused furikake or dehydrated kimchi powder instead of traditional condiments.
A shrimp toast and schnitzel hybrid merges Cantonese and German culinary traditions, presenting a fried shrimp mousse wrapped in thin pork loin and coated in panko and sesame seeds. However, accompanying plum sauce was deemed overly sweet by some reviewers.
On the lighter side, dishes such as a fennel salad with fried capers and Meyer lemon cheong or a scallop ceviche with pickled cape gooseberries offer refreshing contrasts. Then there is a much-ordered fried Yukon Gold potato dish combining creamy interior texture with a crispy exterior—but its heavy salting and topping of hollandaise and caviar drew some critique.
Desserts at Somssi take a modest form, featuring small portions like olive oil cake, popcorn-flavored ice cream, and grape granita with toasted fig leaf custard. These concluded the meal on a subtle note, in keeping with the restaurant’s restrained aesthetic.
The name Somssi reflects a concept of craft and handmade skill, embodying the restaurant’s embrace of rough edges as a source of character rather than polish. While the menu oscillates between moments of brilliance and uneven executions, Somssi offers a setting where the culinary experience serves as a backdrop to social connection, rather than a pursuit of perfection.
For those seeking a modest, idiosyncratic venue in Greenwich Village, Somssi presents an option that combines cultural interplay with a friendly neighborhood ambiance. The restaurant’s strengths lie in its willingness to experiment and its commitment to authenticity, providing a dining experience that is thoughtfully casual without pretense.