Jewelry designers are increasingly moving away from traditional retail models, opting instead to create private, appointment-only showrooms that prioritize intimacy and personalization. This shift reflects both changing consumer preferences and challenges facing the broader luxury retail sector.

Brent Neale Winston, a New York-based designer, recently opened a 7,000-square-foot showroom on Fifth Avenue designed to feel more like a comfortable living space than a traditional store. The penthouse setting features couches, curated books and artwork, and custom vitrines displaying her colorful, whimsical jewelry, allowing clients to immerse themselves in her creative world. Winston describes the concept as “residential-style retail,” where customers often bring in stones or existing pieces to redesign, or seek unique jewelry for special occasions. The showroom provides a relaxed environment for detailed consultations, allowing her to build personal connections with clients.

Winston’s move towards a private showroom reflects a broader trend among independent jewelers, particularly as major department stores and luxury retailers face financial uncertainty. In January, Saks Global, which owns Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, with many designers experiencing unpaid invoices and canceled orders—recalling the disruption caused by Barneys New York’s bankruptcy and closure in 2020. Winston said the experience underscored the risks of relying heavily on wholesale partnerships, prompting her to focus more on direct client relationships.

The private, by-appointment showroom model offers designers greater control over how their work is presented and experienced. Unlike the increasingly expansive luxury retail spaces found worldwide, these more intimate settings foster a sense of exclusivity and deeper client engagement. While appointment-only sales have long been standard practice for ultra-high-end jewelers such as Taffin, JAR, and Glenn Spiro, the approach is becoming more widespread among mid-range designers seeking a closer connection to buyers.

For many clients, jewelry purchases are deeply personal—often marking milestones or involving the redesign of heirlooms—making the nature of the retail experience especially important. Sophie Bille Brahe, who operates appointment-only showrooms in Copenhagen and New York, emphasized that these private settings facilitate natural and intimate conversations, fostering relationships that transcend conventional client interactions. Her minimalist New York space incorporates Danish influences and presents handpicked selections tailored to each visitor.

Similarly, Paris-based designer Marie Lichtenberg recently opened a showroom in her St-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood that resembles a cozy apartment filled with antiques, art, and even a margarita bar to encourage visitors to stay and engage deeply. Known for her personalized lockets, Lichtenberg collaborates closely with clients to develop meaningful, custom pieces.

As the luxury jewelry market evolves, this trend toward private, appointment-based showrooms highlights a growing desire among designers and clients for personalized experiences and direct connections in an industry adapting to shifting retail landscapes.