On the occasion of her 84th birthday, Malaysian author and publisher Datin Kalsom Taib reflected on the significance of a traditional dish from her childhood—ox tongue stew—while dining at a Middle Eastern restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. The dish, presented as beef tongue pide at the restaurant, sparked memories of a recipe that has long been embedded in Johor’s culinary heritage but risks fading from everyday familiarity.

Ox tongue stew, traditionally prepared from the tongue of a mature ox, has been a favored dish within Kalsom’s family, particularly during her upbringing in her grandparents’ home in Muar. The dish is cherished for its rich flavor and comforting qualities, often reserved for special occasions rather than everyday meals. Its preparation requires time and skill: the tongue must be thoroughly cleaned, boiled for several hours with spices until tender, peeled to reveal the succulent meat, and then sliced back into a rich gravy alongside vegetables to absorb the deep flavors through slow simmering.

The dish’s origins are complex and reflective of cultural exchanges rather than a single point of inception. Tongue has historically appeared in many cuisines worldwide, including European countries such as Britain and France, as well as in Middle Eastern and Asian food cultures, where it is prized for its ability to become tender while retaining texture. In Johor, ox tongue stew likely became part of the local culinary repertoire through historical exchanges during the 19th century, when the Johor royal court, under Sultan Abu Bakar, maintained close relations with the British and absorbed various European influences. These external influences mingled with local techniques and ingredients, often beginning in palace kitchens before transitioning into broader usage among households.

Kalsom’s cousin and co-author, Hamidah Abdul Hamid, known as Adek, brought personal experience and testing rigor to the dish. Drawing on her connections to the Johor palace kitchen, where the dish was occasionally served, Adek adapted the traditional “agak-agak” (approximate) style recipe—typically lacking precise measurements—into a version that could be reliably replicated. Their collaboration culminated in the inclusion of the recipe in their cookbook Johor Palate, ensuring its preservation for future generations.

While ox tongue and offal dishes have fallen out of favor in many modern kitchens, often replaced by quicker or more convenient meal options, Kalsom argues that such dishes represent more than nutrition; they embody cultural memory and heritage. For earlier generations, utilizing the whole animal was practical and considered a mark of culinary skill rather than inferiority. The texture and flavor profile of tongue make it particularly suited to slow-cooked dishes like stews and braises, enabling it to absorb and meld with accompanying spices and ingredients.

Kalsom’s recent experience with beef tongue pide—a Turkish-style flatbread topped with mushroom, stracciatella cheese, and thinly sliced stewed beef tongue—prompted a vivid sensory recollection of the traditional stew and the family gatherings in Muar. She emphasized that food, including recipes like ox tongue stew, functions as a form of intangible heritage, preserving stories, places, and histories that might otherwise be lost as cultural and culinary practices evolve.

As contemporary lifestyles shift, the preservation and documentation of such recipes become increasingly important. Kalsom contends that recipes do not merely instruct how to cook; they safeguard connections to past generations and the interwoven cultural histories that shape regional identities. By renewing interest in dishes like ox tongue stew, there is potential to maintain a link to Johor’s rich culinary past amid changing tastes and modern conveniences.