In Queens and Brooklyn, two restaurants showcase distinct culinary scenes representing Central Asia and South America with unique approaches and flavors.
Cheburechnaya, located in Rego Park, Queens, remains a notable destination for Uzbek cuisine after nearly 25 years in operation. Founded by Isak Sionov and his mother, Nadya Masturov, the restaurant reflects the heritage of Bukharian Jews who settled in the neighborhood following the collapse of the Soviet Union. The establishment is known for its use of traditional ingredients such as dumba, a rich Uzbek sheep’s tail fat rarely seen in New York kitchens. Cheburechnaya serves a variation using torched rib fat that diners spread on crusty lepeshka bread, offering a distinctive blend of sweetness and barnyard-like depth.
The restaurant’s wood-lined interior houses cooks who use unconventional methods such as hair dryers to fuel charcoal flames, elevating dishes like spiced meat pastries and nose-to-tail kebabs. Menu highlights include lamb heart smoked to a firm texture, testicles with an iron-tinged flavor, and fatty lamb ribs that feature prominently both grilled and within samsa pastries. Accompanying sides like green plov with wilted cilantro and lamb-infused pilaf add herbal and earthy layers to the experience. Diners also praise the cheburek, a fried half-moon hand pie delivering a burst of rich meat juices, and skewers combining veal liver with caramelized lamb fat, balancing minerality with sweetness.
Across the East River in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Cafe Bar J.F. offers a modern take on South American cuisine influenced by Santiago and Lima. Founded by Juan Correa and chef Francisco Castillo, the space inhabits the former Llama Inn location and defies easy categorization, blending elements of café, bar, and tavern. The culinary approach emphasizes creativity and refinement, with dishes that often draw on smoky, briny, and textural contrasts.
Standout offerings include heirloom tomatoes presented nearly whole, accented by smoky notes and vinegary mussel escabeche, and a thinly sliced rib-eye steak served with a robust tomato sauce. The menu also features a celery salad plated with an avocado sauce and squid ink-tinted rings and tentacles resting on beluga lentils. While some items such as the gnudi with leeks or a scallop ceviche miss the mark with texture issues, the overall dining experience showcases thoughtful execution paired with a stylish, inviting atmosphere marked by dim lighting and spacious seating.
Both establishments reflect the growing diversity of New York City’s food scene, with Cheburechnaya preserving traditional Uzbek flavors in a kosher setting and Cafe Bar J.F. blending modern techniques with Latin American roots. Each offers a distinctive taste of their respective regions amidst the city’s dynamic culinary landscape.
