In the Cotswolds village of Mickleton, England, a distinctive tradition endures each Friday evening at the Three Ways House Hotel, where the Pudding Club invites guests to sample seven classic British puddings in one sitting. Established in 1985, the club was founded by then-hotel owners Keith and Jean Turner to preserve a fading element of British culinary heritage in the face of modern dessert trends and supermarket offerings.
The event centers around seven rich, stodgy desserts, served hot alongside 24 pints of Bird’s custard. Participants attempt to work through the full lineup, which highlights the hearty and unpretentious nature of traditional British puddings. The club’s name cleverly corresponds to the seven letters of the word "custard," reflecting the importance of the quintessential accompaniment.
The Turners were motivated by concerns that traditional puddings were edging toward extinction, supplanted by foreign desserts and the smaller, more refined portions popularized by nouvelle cuisine. Their initiative soon attracted paying guests, and subsequent owners of the hotel—Jill and Simon Coombe and Peter Henderson—expanded the club’s reach, promoting events internationally in places like Tokyo and Osaka, hosting television crews, and selling branded puddings through retailers such as Waitrose.
Currently managed by Samantha Hughes, who began her career in the hotel kitchen under the Turners, the Pudding Club maintains its commitment to celebrating British pudding culture. Despite this dedication, defining what constitutes a traditional pudding is complex. Historically, the term "pudding" derives from the Latin word botellus, meaning sausage, and many early puddings were meat-based, comprising grains, spices, and dried fruit encased in animal gut and boiled. Over centuries, the inclusion of sugar and the introduction of pudding cloths shifted puddings toward sweeter and meatless forms, with suet—fat from around cow kidneys—remaining the only traditional meat derivative commonly used.
Technological advancements further diversified pudding styles, enabling the creation of moulded and gelatin-based varieties such as flummeries and jellies, alongside regional specialties like Sussex Bailiff’s Bliss and Sussex Pond, an 17th-century pastry enclosing sweetened fruit fillings that is still served regularly at the club.
Despite this rich history, puddings experienced decline during the 20th century due to wartime constraints, societal changes reducing time for traditional cooking, and the popularity of convenience desserts. By the 1980s, when the Turners founded the Pudding Club, British puddings were largely relegated to nostalgic school canteens and formal institutions such as the House of Lords.
The club attracts many visitors drawn by nostalgia and the comforting familiarity of these classic dishes, which food historian Annie Gray describes as emblematic of “British simplicity, adaptability and perhaps a little bit of thuggishness.” While some puddings, like sticky toffee pudding, have endured as pub staples and appear in select high-end restaurants in London and New York, the broader outlook for traditional British puddings remains precarious.
English Heritage recently warned that several iconic puddings risk disappearing once more, a concern echoed by Hughes who notes, “You’d never get a Sussex Pond anywhere” outside dedicated venues like the Pudding Club. The enduring popularity of the club suggests a continued, if niche, appreciation for this longstanding British culinary tradition.
