The spring/summer 2027 menswear collections showcased in Milan last week highlighted a renewed focus on the customer, with designers emphasizing pragmatism, wearability, and distinct visions tailored to their very important clients (VICs). While the season did not surrender to uniform trends, it reflected a market-driven approach aimed at sustaining sales and responding to diverse customer demands.
Notably, Zegna, under Alessandro Sartori, staged its show in Los Angeles rather than Milan, targeting the lucrative US market. The presentation included a takeover of part of the Château Marmont hotel, where 120 VIP clients had an exclusive five-day period to pre-order the collection, ahead of Zegna’s boutiques and wholesale buyers who viewed it in Milan. Sartori’s designs channeled a nostalgic 1960s and ’70s aesthetic with specially woven fabrics, relaxed short shorts, boxy jackets, and lightweight layers suitable for both casual settings and sunset strolls along Venice’s waterfront.
In contrast, Thom Browne, also part of the Zegna group, presented a more avant-garde collection, featuring elements such as patent leather hobble skirts, embellished duster coats, high-heel brogues, and beekeeper-style veils. The theatrical show, described by Browne as inspired by the Pixar film "A Bug’s Life," incorporated bold color blocking alongside his signature greyscale palette. Despite the eccentric details, the collection included preppy Americana staples like creased shirts, ties, and seersucker, signaling a relative restraint compared to previous seasons.
American influences were further evident in Ralph Lauren’s collection, which revisited collegiate style and sharp suiting reminiscent of the 1980s, though with modern updates such as sweatshirts paired with knotted cravats and patchwork denim waistcoats. The meticulous tailoring drew indirect associations with iconic cultural references, underscoring a blend of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.
Paul Smith embraced the 1980s as well, leaning on archive pieces like broad-shouldered suits and bold "power ties." He catered to younger customers’ nostalgia using lightweight fabrics such as Donegal tweed, wool, silk, and Tencel, meeting demands for summer-appropriate garments. Smith noted steady retail success, highlighting the importance of continued relevance to his clientele.
Dolce & Gabbana, debuting under the new co-CEO Stefano Cantino alongside Alfonso Dolce while Stefano Gabbana refocused solely on creative direction, presented a collection inspired by Sicilian holidays. The runway featured models in various states of undress framed by white pillars, with garments showcasing bright swim shorts, embroidered suits and jeans, and embellished clogs. The show’s energetic atmosphere reflected a fresh chapter for the brand.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, known for their conceptual approach, continued to place customer preferences at the forefront. Their collaboration, titled "Clarity," emphasized narrow silhouettes, particularly five-pocket drainpipe jeans in innovative fabrics ranging from transparent nylon to printed wool. This marked a potential shift away from the oversized trends dominating menswear for the past decade, aligning with Prada’s longstanding clientele who favor slim cuts.
Armani remains a perennial favorite among customers for maintaining consistent core styles, focusing on slope-shoulder tailoring and long, deliberately loose jackets in earthy tones reminiscent of desert landscapes. Under the stewardship of Leo Dell’Orco, the brand continues to balance heritage and evolution without dramatic departures, reinforcing steady commercial appeal.
Overall, the Milan collections demonstrated a blend of creativity and commercial sensibility, with designers acknowledging that while innovation is vital, understanding and serving their customer base effectively remains the cornerstone of the fashion business.