The gilet, a sleeveless padded jacket, has become a ubiquitous element of men’s corporate style, notably worn over suits across financial districts from London’s Square Mile to Manhattan. Despite its practical origins—evolving from the traditional tweed shooting vest—the garment has drawn mixed reactions for its widespread adoption, often substituting the overcoat as the preferred layering piece among finance professionals.
Critics argue that the gilet suffers from negative connotations, partly due to its association with so-called "finance bros" who commonly pair it with slim chinos and plain white shirts, resulting in a bland, uninspired look. This perception has even been satirized on social media. However, some fashion experts believe the gilet can transcend these stereotypes if styled thoughtfully and constructed with quality materials.
Kristian Robson, owner of Oliver Brown, a Sloane Street tailoring and outfitting firm, describes the gilet as a “brilliant and useful thing,” pointing to its practical advantages. Its lightweight warmth allows for ease of movement—useful for daily urban activities such as navigating public transport or riding a Lime bike—without the bulk of a traditional coat. Robson advises against overly padded or technical-looking styles, recommending instead designs cut from lightweight tailoring cloths like tweed or flannel, with simple, clean lines and subtle detailing.
Benedict Browne, style director at Mr Porter, emphasizes the importance of pairing gilets with appropriate clothing beneath, noting that knitwear can elevate the garment’s aesthetic. He suggests long-sleeved shirts or fine-gauge merino sweaters rather than short-sleeved options or T-shirts, which can undermine the gilet’s purpose. Browne also highlights the variety of “genres” within gilet styles—technical, traditional, sporty, and heritage—and advises that aligning the outfit with the gilet’s original context tends to produce more coherent and stylish results.
Technical gilets, such as those from Canada Goose or Moncler, originally intended for outdoor and alpine use, are often worn incongruously in professional settings. Experts recommend reserving these for casual or weekend wear, paired with sporty staples like sweatshirts and cargo trousers. On the other hand, "quiet luxury" gilets from Italian brands like Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli offer refined options for office environments, made from materials such as microfibre with water-resistant finishes or soft suede, albeit at a higher price point.
Other notable offerings include Connolly’s drop-back car vest, designed for comfort and ease of movement while driving, and preppy-style gilets from brands like Drake’s, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Hackett, which often feature vibrant colors and textured fabrics. These are recommended to be styled with traditional preppy garments, such as Oxford shirts, corduroys, and shaggy sweaters.
For those seeking understated yet well-crafted gilets, Sunspel offers a wool-cashmere flannel option designed for warmth without bulk, combining a clean silhouette with a water-resistant finish. Edward Finney, Sunspel’s design director, emphasizes the importance of trying gilets on with intended outfits to ensure the right fit and feel.
While some style commentators remain attached to traditional coats during the colder months, there is broad recognition that gilets have become a staple of contemporary menswear layering. The key to avoiding common fashion pitfalls lies in thoughtful fabric choices, considered styling, and an awareness of the gilet’s diverse design inspirations.