The debate over the best way to cleanse the face has taken on renewed intensity within the beauty community, sparked by a recent statement from renowned facialist Teresa Tarmey. In a widely shared post on her Substack newsletter, Tarmey urged consumers to reconsider their use of cleansing balms, declaring she would “happily die on this hill.” She contends that cleansing balms, despite their popularity, are counterproductive because their occlusive nature leaves a residue that can linger in pores and lead to skin congestion.

The reaction to Tarmey’s comments was swift and divided, highlighting the strong attachment many have to cleansing balms and underscoring cleansing as a deeply personal and sometimes contentious aspect of skincare routines. This discussion coincides with findings from a study released last year revealing that 20% of Britons skip cleansing their face daily—a statistic that experts find concerning.

Modern cleansers have evolved far beyond simple dirt removal, now incorporating a wide spectrum of textures and active ingredients such as fermented algae and skin-restoring ceramides. These formulations claim to address various skin issues from dullness to breakouts, challenging the notion that cleansers are merely products to be washed away without lasting effect.

Industry experts emphasize a balanced view. Consultant dermatologist Dr. Derrick Phillips explains that while cleansers should effectively eliminate dirt, excess oils, sunscreen, makeup, and environmental pollutants, they must also maintain the skin barrier’s integrity. However, Dr. Phillips also notes that the overall impact of cleansers is limited due to the brief time they remain on the skin before rinsing.

The broader question raised by these insights is why so much emphasis is placed on cleansing products if their effect is transient. Some specialists suggest that while cleansers play an essential role in preparing the skin, the more substantive benefits in skincare largely come from serums, creams, and masks applied afterward.

Still, the passionate exchanges in the beauty community reflect a common desire to optimize every step of the skincare regimen, even those dismissed as simple. As debates continue, consumers may do well to weigh expert guidance against personal experience to find what works best for their skin type and concerns.