After a period of relative neglect, fig-based fragrances are experiencing a resurgence in the perfume market, offering new interpretations that aim to restore the fruit’s olfactory appeal. Once dominated by Diptyque’s Philosykos, regarded by many as the definitive fig scent, the category saw widespread dilution with numerous lower-quality imitations that diminished its standing.

Philosykos, known for its lush, green profile that captures the essence of fig groves, remains highly regarded. Many experts continue to praise its eau de toilette version, considering it the benchmark against which all other fig fragrances are measured.

Recently, luxury designer Tom Ford has introduced Figue Erotique, a fragrance that explores fig at multiple stages of ripeness. The scent transitions from sharp and green to warm, juicy, and sun-drenched, eventually arriving at a creamy, sugary finish. It incorporates additional elements including mandarin zest and a musky undertone, resulting in a complex and bold composition. Although priced at £188 for a 30ml bottle, the fragrance is noted for its potency and longevity, with larger volumes containing the equivalent amount of perfume found in several standard bottles.

Roger&Gallet offers a more accessible fig option with Fleur de Figuier, retailing at £21 for 30ml. This fragrance emphasizes bright citrus notes balanced with green fig leaves and cumin, which adds a warm, woody dimension without overpowering the scent. Its fresh and lively character appeals to those seeking a lighter, less intense fig experience.

The fig fragrance category has suffered from oversaturation by less distinctive scents, which some describe as reducing fig’s appeal from a rich, natural quality to that of a generic air freshener. However, these new releases suggest a renewed interest in more nuanced and sophisticated fig interpretations, poised to reinvigorate the market and appeal to discerning consumers.