A new restaurant in Wandsworth, London, has drawn attention for its blend of polished Italian cuisine and more adventurous dishes, challenging expectations of the local dining scene. Rosina, situated near Wandsworth Common on the south bank, opened recently with a concept led by Michelin-starred chef Adam Byatt, known for his previous work in modern British cooking at Trinity in Clapham.
Rosina occupies a prominent location overlooking a playing field and presents itself with a bright, white interior, a cocktail bar, and an open kitchen staffed by a team of around eight chefs. The atmosphere seeks to balance casual elegance with a formal suburban restraint typical of the area, attracting a clientele that ranges from local food enthusiasts to well-heeled diners.
The menu focuses primarily on Italian cuisine, reflecting Byatt’s mid-career shift to pasta and Italy-inspired dishes. It mixes familiar elements, including cold meats, caponata, and various pastas, alongside some less conventional options for the area. Among the pasta offerings, a modest portion of cacio e pepe, priced at £8, was highlighted as a standout dish, notable both for its quality and its unassuming cost.
Other dishes on the menu include an elegant whole bream cooked in salt and a rabbit escalope with rich, musky flavors. The restaurant also offers more robust, distinctive dishes such as rabbit liver bruschetta enhanced with lardo, deep-fried gnocchi topped with salame rosa, and sardines prepared with salsa verde and rolled in breadcrumbs. These items lean into what could be described as “manly” or bold flavors, contrasting with the otherwise polished presentation.
One particularly unusual dish is veal tongue, served boiled, braised, and sliced, accompanied by a bright mustard fruit condiment that adds sharpness and depth. While visually unappealing, the veal tongue was praised for its tender texture and complex taste, leaving a strong impression on diners.
Despite the strong culinary pedigree behind the restaurant, some dishes were met with mixed reactions. A risotto prepared during one visit drew compliments for its size and appearance but was criticized for being undercooked. Similarly, a pasta dish featuring ’nduja failed to show the expected presence of the spicy cured sausage.
Rosina’s opening has revived some of Wandsworth’s culinary reputation, harking back to the area’s more prominent past when nearby establishments were training grounds for now-famous chefs. The approach at Rosina seems carefully calibrated to appeal to a discerning, affluent audience, offering a menu that is both accessible and occasionally daring.
Located at 35 Bellevue Road, London SW17, Rosina offers an experience priced around £80 per person without drinks, situating itself as a notable new player in the capital’s regional dining landscape.