Tony Turnbull, a seasoned food writer with over 25 years of experience, recently shared his insights and personal anecdotes about the culinary world, reflecting on his observations of food culture, restaurants, and chefs.
Turnbull recalled his long acquaintance with Gordon Ramsay, noting that despite the chef’s often fiery, outspoken public persona, Ramsay is privately kind and supportive. Having collaborated on two of Ramsay’s cookbooks, Turnbull emphasized that Ramsay consistently inquires about his family during meetings, challenging the common perception of the celebrity chef’s demeanor.
Addressing the dynamic between critics and restaurants, Turnbull acknowledged that critics often receive preferential treatment when recognized, from better seating to enhanced service. He advised diners identified by staff to order something extravagant, such as dishes featuring caviar or truffles, to encourage favorable attention.
Reflecting on dining experiences, Turnbull described his early visit to The Ivy in the 1990s as a notable disappointment. He had anticipated celebrity sightings and exceptional fare, but found neither and instead encountered standard dishes like shepherd’s pie accompanied by ketchup. He attributed this to his own inflated expectations rather than the restaurant’s quality, noting that once he adjusted his perspective, The Ivy became a much-enjoyed establishment.
Turnbull emphasized the importance of familiarity and convenience in dining, suggesting that the “best” restaurant is often the one nearest to you that you enjoy. He cited “Don’t Tell Dad” in Queen’s Park, northwest London, as a personal favorite, underscoring the value of ease and comfort over distant gastronomic adventures.
Offering a broader view on food enthusiasm, Turnbull cautioned against excessive obsessiveness over dining choices, noting that “it’s only food” and criticizing those who obsess over finding the “best pizza.” He cheerfully admitted that despite writing about fine culinary products, he personally shops for olive oil and wine at Aldi, highlighting sensible shopping habits while acknowledging gifts of quality items from others. He did make exceptions for certain specialty ingredients, such as quality vinegars—vermouth vinegar by Belazu and PX sherry vinegar from José Pizarro—and recommended La Fiammante tomatoes, which he noted must be purchased online.
Turnbull shared some challenging experiences as well, recounting an occasion at a well-known Italian restaurant where he sent back a disappointing plate of spaghetti alle vongole, only to be publicly contradicted by the maître d’, leading to a humiliating situation. He also admitted to stopping at McDonald’s after a Michelin-starred lunch due to small portion sizes, an anecdote likely to resonate with many diners.
He acknowledged the pressures of seasonal food writing, particularly Christmas lunch features, revealing he maintains consistent recipes out of respect for tradition rather than innovation. On service charges, Turnbull reiterated his frequent explanation about financial and tax-related rationales behind such practices, though expressing some frustration over their continued misunderstanding by the public.
Turnbull also addressed the complexities restaurants face regarding food allergies, noting examples of customers making inappropriate requests or downplaying their allergies. He expressed sympathy for restaurateurs navigating these challenges, contrasting genuine allergies with what he described as dietary trends or preferences.
Sharing industry insider humor, Turnbull recounted an incident involving MasterChef presenter Gregg Wallace, whose joking nature sometimes elicited mixed reactions from colleagues and public relations staff responsible for managing his image.
Turning to current dining trends, Turnbull discussed the increasing demand to secure tables at Bouchon Racine, Henry Harris’s acclaimed Lyonnaise bistro in the UK. With limited seating available—just 11 tables and 38 covers—he advised early phone reservations or trying to visit during off-peak times.
Highlighting regional producers, Turnbull praised White Lake Dairy in Somerset for its goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses, particularly offerings like Sheep Rustler and Pavé Cobble, which he named among his favorites.
Conversely, he identified hot honey and truffle-flavored products as overrated food trends, suggesting that some popular ingredients are hyped beyond their actual culinary merit.
Encouraging home cooks, Turnbull emphasized that most people are better cooks than they believe, attributing success to simple techniques and quality ingredients. He fondly recalled dining with Raymond Blanc, who prepared roast chicken at his childhood home that closely resembled Turnbull’s own version, contrasting the simplicity of the dish with more complex preparations like Blanc’s braised turbot.
Touching on culinary techniques, Turnbull noted chefs’ liberal use of heat and seasoning, citing a demonstration where Gordon Ramsay salted broccoli multiple times during cooking to enhance flavor, despite health concerns from Turnbull’s cardiologist wife.
On the subject of food influencers, Turnbull offered a candid critique, observing that many spend dinners absorbed in their phones and contribute little to conversations.
In reflecting on past misjudgments, Turnbull admitted missing opportunities with now-successful brands Fever-Tree and Huel, initially doubting their appeal before their significant market success.
Finally, Turnbull shared a personal anecdote about a long-held bottle of green Chartreuse that found new appreciation following a visit to Jason Atherton and Spencer Metzger’s Mayfair brasserie. He recommended the bijou cocktail, a mix of gin, sweet vermouth, Chartreuse, and orange bitters, as a modern classic.
Throughout his reflections, Turnbull conveyed a practical, grounded approach to food and dining, balancing appreciation for culinary excellence with a pragmatic and often humorous perspective on the food industry and its cultural trends.
