On the streets of Colima city in Mexico, the Bejarano family maintains a long-standing tradition by selling tuba, a fermented beverage made from the sap of the coconut palm. Popular among locals for its refreshing taste and cultural significance, the drink is often served as tuba compuesta, mixed with fresh fruit and peanuts, and enjoyed both as a daily refreshment and a base for cocktails.

Tuba’s origins trace back to the mid-16th century, during the era of the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade route, which connected Mexico and the Philippines for 250 years. This maritime trade introduced many culinary traditions and ingredients between the two regions, notably bringing the coconut palm from Asia to Mexico and Mexican produce like avocado and papaya to the Philippines. The galleon fleet’s last port before reaching Acapulco was Colima, cementing the city’s role in this cross-cultural exchange.

The drink itself is produced by tapping the sap at the base of coconut palm fronds. Skilled artisans climb the trees, extract the sap, and gather it in containers to allow natural fermentation. Tuba develops a tangy flavor with a slight viscosity, resembling Mexico’s traditional pulque, and can acquire mild alcohol content if fermented longer, similar to tepache or tejuino. Despite its coconut origin, the drink’s taste is distinct and does not strongly resemble coconut fruit.

In recent years, tuba has experienced a revival in Colima, appearing not only in street stalls but also on upscale restaurant menus where it is combined with spirits. This resurgence is part of a broader culinary movement in the state, which includes a renewed appreciation for regional dishes such as Colima’s pozole seco and artisanal products like those from Cervecería de Colima, a widely respected brewery.

Local chef Nico Mejía emphasizes Colima’s unique natural environment—its proximity to the sea, mountains, rainforest, and volcanic soil—as a source of distinctive ingredients that shape the state’s diverse, authentic cuisine. The coconut palm, in particular, remains central to the local culture, featuring prominently in snacks and seafood dishes that characterize the broader Pacific coast, although no other nearby state reveres tuba quite as much as Colima.

Experts note that tuba represents more than a culinary artifact; it is a tangible link between Filipino and Mexican histories. Rudy Guevarra Jr., a professor of Asian Pacific American studies, highlights how the galleon trade facilitated not only the exchange of goods but also the sharing of knowledge, resistance, and ancestral traditions among Indigenous Mexicans and Filipinos under Spanish colonial rule.

Additionally, historian Paulina Machuca points to the introduction of distillation techniques from the Philippines to Mexico via the galleon trade. These methods, utilizing natural materials unlike European copper stills, contributed to local fermenting customs, reinforcing the deep Filipino influence on Colima’s traditional beverages and terminology.

Tuba’s reach now extends beyond Mexico, as illustrated by a small eatery in Los Angeles’ Lincoln Heights that imports frozen tuba primarily to serve the Colima diaspora. At Raspados Nayarit, a modest juice and snack shop, the drink draws customers seeking a connection to home, underscoring how this centuries-old beverage continues to carry cultural resonance across borders.

In blending history, tradition, and local pride, tuba embodies a culinary revival rooted in an enduring trans-Pacific heritage.