In Kyiv’s largest art museum, Ukrainian fashion designer Arina Petrova and her father Serhii prepared to unveil her debut collection amid the looming threat of Russian drone attacks. The pair, operating from their punk fashion studio “Bob Basset” in the heavily bombarded city of Kharkiv, carried their punk leather animal costumes to the capital by minibus, determined to demonstrate that their city—and its creative spirit—remains resilient.

Petrova’s first collection, titled “Mutabor” — Latin for “I shall transform” — features dark, monochrome designs inspired by animalistic imagery. The creations, including feathered leather masks and breastplates, draw on Serhii’s original concepts of fierce, clawed creatures. “During war, everyone has to become a little more ferocious... grow fangs,” Petrova said, underscoring the collection’s message of strength through transformation.

The family duo has a long history in mask-making. Prior to the conflict that erupted in February 2022, Bob Basset had garnered recognition for crafting leather masks worn by metal bands such as Korn and Slipknot. Since the war began, Serhii has dedicated his work to creating face coverings for wounded soldiers, helping them conceal scars and, in a sense, reclaim their identities. His daughter joined him in reviving their Kharkiv workshop despite ongoing bombardments.

As the event approached, the threat of interruption remained palpable. When Russian jet-powered drones neared Kyiv, air raid sirens forced an evacuation of attendees. Nevertheless, Petrova expressed a readiness to continue the showcase underground if necessary, even if that meant relying on cellphone flashlights to illuminate the models and a live cellist accompanying the performance.

The presentation took place against a backdrop of tension: explosions near the museum and air defense activity overhead. Amid these conditions, models wearing the collection’s distinctive masks moved silently through the audience, concluding the show amidst a blend of applause and sirens. Among those in attendance was a woman dressed in a garment made from drone debris, symbolizing the fusion of creativity and conflict.

Reflecting on the resilience required to create under such duress, Petrova noted, “Only those who are capable of creating under these conditions remain.” The show marked Bob Basset’s first new collection in 11 years, a testament to sustained artistic determination amid the ongoing war. With uncertainty surrounding the security of their Kharkiv studio, which has been targeted by bombings, Petrova acknowledged the fragility of their work, emphasizing the urgency to express their message before circumstances might prevent it.