The luxury watch industry is grappling with how to best engage female consumers, a demographic increasingly seen as a key growth opportunity. However, views differ sharply among brands regarding the relevance of gender-specific designs. Some manufacturers are moving toward gender-neutral models, while others maintain that timepieces tailored explicitly for women remain important.

Blancpain recently introduced the Lady B, reviving a 1950s design from the era when Betty Fiechter, credited as the first woman to head a Swiss watchmaker, led the company. The watch features a 19mm case and one of the smallest mechanical movements in the market. Christian Lattmann, Blancpain’s head of product, emphasized the model’s appeal to women who seek a blend of horological craftsmanship and personal style. He noted that Fiechter believed women’s watches deserved the same mechanical sophistication as men’s.

Industry opinions vary on whether this approach is necessary. Brands like Dior, Bvlgari, and Chopard have established reputations for women’s watches, while many specialist watchmakers tend to offer smaller versions of existing men’s designs or promote them as unisex. This trend toward smaller cases has coincided with growing male demand for more modestly sized watches.

Malaika Crawford, editorial director at a leading watch magazine, questioned the assumption that unisex products represent feminist progress, asking whether pushing for uniformity erases meaningful differences. Data on gender breakdowns in high-end watch purchasers is limited, but Deloitte’s recent industry report identified female buyers and Generation Z as key growth segments. The consultancy also found a significant decline in women wearing exclusively traditional watches, with many opting for smartwatches or hybrid usage.

Historically, many iconic models, including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Speedmaster, were created with male professionals in mind, underscoring the industry’s traditionally male-oriented customer base. Yet some brands report success with unisex strategies. Bvlgari’s launch of a smaller 37mm Octo Finissimo model saw a notable increase in female buyers, reaching about one-third of purchasers compared to one in ten for the original 40mm version.

Despite this, Bvlgari’s watch managing director Jonathan Brinbaum acknowledged the continuing commercial value of women-focused designs such as the Serpenti Tubogas and Seduttori collections. He also highlighted shifting tastes among younger consumers, suggesting brands must balance heritage with moves toward gender-neutral models.

Retailers display varying practices; Watches of Switzerland maintains separate “Mens” and “Ladies” sections, while Bucherer, owned by Rolex, has introduced a unisex category. Morgan Stanley’s evaluation of top Swiss watch brands showed that most, including Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and Breitling, still use gender filters on their digital platforms.

In contrast, Audemars Piguet has removed gender categorizations altogether. CEO Ilaria Resta, one of the few female executives in Swiss watchmaking, argued that clients — particularly younger ones — do not request such labels, which may act as barriers. She reported that female buyers represented 27.5 percent of the company’s clientele in 2025, with plans to increase that figure to 40 percent. Resta also pointed out the underrepresentation of women in watchmaking professions and leadership roles.

Hublot similarly offers no women’s watch labels, instead providing smaller sizes of existing models like the Classic Fusion and Big Bang. Chief product officer Sadry Keiser stressed that buyers seek watches reflecting individual style rather than gender, cautioning that size should not be exclusively associated with one sex.

Yet Blancpain’s Lattmann and Crawford emphasized the importance of design considerations specifically aligned with women’s preferences and physiology, rather than simply resizing men’s watches. They argued that such differentiation remains relevant, much as women’s clothing is gendered to fit different body types.

The debate extends to industry awards. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has eliminated women’s watch categories this year, opting instead for classifications like “time only” and “gemset.” Some experts, including photographer Oliver Müller, caution this shift does not reflect market realities, noting women’s watches often yield higher profit margins. Others, such as Tracey Llewellyn, concern that removing women’s categories could inadvertently shift focus back toward male preferences, sidelining a vital segment.

Resta supports the change, suggesting that judging watches without gendered distinctions aligns better with contemporary consumer attitudes and resonates with younger generations seeking inclusivity.

As luxury watchmakers navigate evolving consumer demands, the tension between embracing gender neutrality and honoring distinct preferences among female buyers is shaping product strategy, retail approach, and industry recognition in an increasingly competitive market.