At the recent Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, the trend toward boldly shaped timepieces continues to gain momentum, reflecting a growing appetite among collectors and buyers for designs that break away from traditional round cases. Luxury retailers and watchmakers noted particularly strong interest in distinctive forms, signaling a shift in consumer preferences in the high-end market.

Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches at the New York retailer Material Good, observed an unusual surge in client inquiries on the fair’s opening day, largely focused on Audemars Piguet’s new Établisseurs Galets watch. This model features an 18-karat gold case and bracelet links sculpted to resemble pebbles, underscoring the growing appeal of unconventional shapes.

Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, attributed the resurgence to nostalgia for the experimental, playful cases popular in the 1960s and 1970s. His brand recently introduced the HM12, a titanium-cased watch with a futuristic design that doubles as the head of a 15-inch robot figurine called The Guardian, designed by L’Epée. Büsser noted that historic archives have increasingly inspired brands to revisit and boldly reinterpret shapes that were once considered too eccentric for the market.

Collectors and style experts have also highlighted the role of unusual watch shapes in personal expression. Shane C. Kurup, men’s style editor at Country & Town House magazine, pointed to the saturation of more conventional models like the Rolex Submariner and Omega Speedmaster as driving demand for distinctive designs. He and other collectors favor timepieces that serve as conversation starters and reflect individuality, such as his own 1960s egg-shaped Duxot watch.

Cartier is among the luxury houses actively revitalizing its catalog with reimagined shapes. Pierre Rainero, the brand’s director of image, style and heritage, outlined plans including limited editions of the iconic Crash model, featuring a skeletonized movement and produced in a run of just 150 platinum pieces scheduled for September release. The brand will also reintroduce the Roadster with a new elongated, thinner case and in-house automatic movements, expanding their selection of distinctive designs.

Similarly, Piaget’s director of jewelry and watchmaking, Stéphanie Sivrière, emphasized that uniqueness in case design enhances brand distinctiveness. Piaget’s Sixtie watch, which features a wider top than bottom 18-karat pink gold case and a blue quartz-stone dial, illustrates how creativity translates into market appeal. Gerald Charles, under CEO Federico Ziviani, also employs signature case shapes to strengthen brand identity and particularly targets markets like Japan, where demand for design innovation is strong.

Despite enthusiasm for novelty, collectors caution that the longevity of taste matters. Rob Kellner, a noted watch collector and influencer from Manchester, described unusual watches as “fun” but emphasized the importance of personal satisfaction over time to avoid regretful purchases. Other experts, however, believe the rising auction prices of distinctive watches, such as a 2000s Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar sold for $584,200—more than double its estimate—may encourage brands to introduce more avant-garde models.

Overall, the market for watches with unconventional shapes is expanding, driven by both brand creativity and a consumer desire to differentiate in an increasingly crowded landscape of luxury timepieces.