In Ramallah, the administrative center of the Palestinian Authority, two longstanding ice cream shops have become local fixtures and a source of friendly rivalry among residents. The shops, Rukab’s and Baladna, have endured as much more than just purveyors of dessert—they are symbols of community resilience amid ongoing economic and political challenges in the West Bank.
Rukab’s, established in 1941 by one of Ramallah’s original families, is regarded as the city’s elder ice cream purveyor. Located near al-Manara Plaza on Ramallah’s main street, which is colloquially known as Rukab Street, the shop has maintained a deep-rooted presence in the area for generations. The current owner, Jimmy Rukab, represents the fourth generation in his family to run the business, which began when his great-grandmother, Sarah Rukab, crafted homemade booza—a traditional Levantine style of ice cream.
Baladna, meaning “our town” or “our country” in Arabic, emerged as a challenger in 1992, founded by former Rukab’s employee Iskandar Imseeh and his brother Hanna. The family moved to Ramallah as refugees from Lydda (now Lod, Israel) following the 1948 war. Baladna has since developed a reputation for innovation, introducing numerous new flavors and attracting a younger clientele, including many local schoolchildren.
Both shops specialize in booza, a dense, elastic ice cream made by pounding and stretching the mixture rather than churning it with air. This method, which often incorporates gum arabic to provide chewiness, results in a product that is resistant to melting in the region’s warm climate. The classic five-flavor order—plain milk, lemon, strawberry, pineapple, and chocolate—remains popular among customers.
Despite their rivalry, the relationship between the two establishments remains amicable. Owner Jimmy Rukab and Baladna’s Imad Imseeh, a second-generation manager, are not only business acquaintances but also extended family, and their children attend the same local school. Residents of Ramallah express strong loyalties to either Rukab’s or Baladna, often choosing a favorite without declaring one superior to the other.
For many locals, the ice cream shops provide a sense of normalcy and comfort amid the uncertainties of life under occupation and economic pressure. Regular patrons describe visiting the shops as a vital tradition and a connection to the city’s heritage, with some families returning for the experience during seasonal visits from abroad.
In a city of roughly 70,000, amid restrictions and challenges, Rukab’s and Baladna represent enduring pillars of daily life. Their soft-spoken rivalry encapsulates a unique aspect of Ramallah’s character—a blend of steadfastness, community identity, and shared enjoyment centered around a distinctly Levantine treat.
