Milan Fashion Week opened with a high-profile celebration of Italian fashion, showcasing a diverse array of creative directions under the overarching theme of “Made in Italy” and the evolution of creativity. The opening event, held at the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, attracted industry executives, designers, and celebrities, including LVMH’s Frédéric Arnault, Kering’s Luca de Meo, Jennifer Lopez, Pamela Anderson, Donatella Versace, and Miuccia Prada. The runway featured renowned supermodels such as Gigi Hadid, Mariacarla Boscono, and Helena Christensen, with some shows incorporating elements like Renaissance-inspired textiles and a ballet performance by Roberto Bolle dressed in a Ferrari costume.

The event was part of Vogue World, a travelling fashion extravaganza initiated by Condé Nast in 2022. While it has generated significant attention, Vogue World has also faced criticism within the industry, particularly due to its use of humanoid robots and sponsorship by Meta. Despite this, fashion events like these have become vital revenue streams for publishers amid a shifting content economy. Some attendees reportedly paid up to €25,000 for access, highlighting the growing importance of physical experiences that can be monetized through extensive digital content. Although the financial profitability of Vogue World is undisclosed, it reportedly generated over $30 million last year, compared with the $42 million raised by the Met Gala earlier in 2026. Industry leaders acknowledge a luxury market in flux, with consumers increasingly cautious amid inflation and previous luxury growth fueled by aspirational purchasing now slowing. Lorenzo Bertelli, executive chair of Versace, described this as a cyclical moment requiring brands to rebuild desirability.

This impetus to refocus on core identities was evident across the Milan shows. Max Mara, led by creative director Ian Griffiths, presented a collection emphasizing “real clothes for real women,” inspired by the practical style of pioneering women from the 1930s. Roberto Cavalli, under Fausto Puglisi, revisited archive prints and the exuberance of the 2000s, capitalizing on renewed celebrity interest in vintage pieces. Meanwhile, new Emporio Armani creative director Dario Vitale is set to reshape the brand’s identity following a final collection by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco that adhered to classic codes with light linens and layered organza transparencies.

Some designers embraced sensuality and desire more explicitly throughout the week. Prada’s co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused almost exclusively on skirts in their collection, presenting 63 variations that explored functionality and self-expression. Prada described skirts as symbolic and versatile, combining practicality with the potential for transformation.

Diesel’s Glenn Martens staged a provocative final show featuring models with disheveled styling alongside dancers from the Marseille artist collective (LA)Horde, creating an immersive atmosphere underscored by the show’s references to carnality and Diesel’s orchid-based fragrance, Only Desire. Martens received a standing ovation for his reinterpretation of the denim brand, blending creativity with commercial appeal.

Fendi’s show, marked by a reflective glass enclosure evoking performance art, featured luxurious yet sensual designs incorporating fur and lace with animal prints and see-through fabrics. Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri cited 1970s inspirations and Italian pop culture icons in her ongoing effort to clarify the brand’s silhouette and vision.

At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti extended the label’s minimalist ethos with collections that balanced structure and fluidity, subtly introducing volume and color accents within a predominantly clean aesthetic. Meryll Rogge’s second collection for Marni blended archival nods to the late 1990s and early 2000s with contemporary elements like colorful technical fabrics and playful accessories, emphasizing innovation over nostalgia.

Overall, Milan Fashion Week reflected the Italian fashion industry’s efforts to negotiate heritage and modernity, identity and desire, in a complex luxury market environment. Brands appeared committed to reaffirming their essence while embracing both creativity and commercial realities in a shifting global landscape.