In South Korea, a new generation of women is embracing the demanding tradition of haenyeo, female divers who harvest seafood by free diving without breathing equipment. This centuries-old practice, celebrated for its unique cultural heritage and recognition by UNESCO, had been in decline amid the country’s rapid economic growth and shifting workforce. However, the pressures of South Korea’s intense work culture are now leading some women to return to the sea, seeking both livelihood and a connection to a meaningful tradition.
Jin So-hee, 33, a native of Busan, left behind a career in skincare, nail art, and nursing assistance to pursue life as a haenyeo at age 25. Drawn to the quiet coastal town of Geoje, Jin encountered women in their seventies still diving for a living, defying typical retirement age. The transition proved physically grueling; she lost 15 pounds in her first year and endured ear pain and headaches from water pressure, ailments common among haenyeo. To manage these challenges, she trained in modern freediving and scuba techniques to better equalize ear pressure and sustain the demanding dives.
The haenyeo tradition, particularly associated with the island of Jeju where numbers have declined from 3,437 in 2021 to 2,371 last year, symbolizes female independence and resilience in a traditionally patriarchal society. This heritage persists beyond Jeju, including coastal communities like Geoje where Jin and fellow diver Woo Jung-min, 40, work to document and promote their experiences through social media, initially facing skepticism from older, private haenyeo.
Another latecomer to the profession is 60-year-old Choi Young-hee, who left behind an exhausting retail career in Seoul to become a haenyeo in her late forties after witnessing divers near Geoje. She now leads an organization dedicated to preserving haenyeo culture and training new divers.
Despite efforts by these women to sustain the tradition, the number of haenyeo continues to dwindle, and environmental changes pose additional threats. Rising sea temperatures are disrupting marine ecosystems, resulting in thinner catches and heightening the dangers of diving in cold, unpredictable waters. The peril of the profession is underscored by an old haenyeo saying: "You earn your living in the realm of the dead and spend it in the world of the living."
The physical and psychological demands remain immense, with even small imperfections in equipment, such as a pinhole in a wetsuit, carrying serious risk during winter dives. Still, haenyeo like Jin and Woo emphasize the profound connection to the ocean, recalling vibrant underwater scenes now diminishing with climate change. Jin describes seasonal blooms of red sea squirts that once carpeted the ocean floor like "a field of roses," a phenomenon that is rapidly disappearing.
As these women navigate the hazards of the sea, they carry forward a living cultural legacy that represents both a hard-earned livelihood and a deep bond with their natural environment.
