Zendaya's recent choice to wear ancient gold earrings has sparked debate within the archaeological and cultural heritage communities regarding the ethics of repurposing historic artifacts as fashion accessories. The actress, promoting her latest film in London, wore gold disc earrings believed to have originated from the Ziwiye hoard, a collection of artifacts excavated near Ziwiyeh Castle in northwestern Iran in the 1940s.
The earrings, featuring gold medallions reportedly mounted with diamonds, were showcased by Barron London, a gallery specializing in rare jewels and stones. According to the gallery, the pieces were acquired in 2025 from Glenn Spiro, a London-based jeweler known for transforming ancient objects into contemporary jewelry within his Materials of the Old World collection. Images of Zendaya wearing the earrings were shared on Barron London's Instagram page. Representatives for Zendaya, her stylist Law Roach, Barron London, and Glenn Spiro did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
The use of these historical artifacts as fashion statements has elicited concerns among archaeologists and cultural preservation experts. Peter Edwell, professor of history and archaeology at Macquarie University in Sydney, described the earrings as "material that’s very problematic" due to uncertain provenance and the likelihood of their origins involving looting or plunder, a common issue with many artifacts from the Middle East dating to this period. He cautioned that the archaeological context of such items is often "hazy" and emphasized the need for careful consideration in handling these materials.
The controversy extends beyond provenance, touching on broader ethical debates over the commercialization of cultural heritage. Critics, including archaeologist and content creator Dr. Z, warned that using ancient objects as fashion accessories risks fetishizing the past and potentially driving demand in the illicit antiquities market. Some expressed concern that these pieces may have been acquired through colonial plundering, a historic practice responsible for distributing valuable cultural objects across the globe.
At the same time, some voices noted that integrating ancient artifacts into high-profile fashion events can draw public attention to issues of antiquities ownership and provenance. Annelise Baer, archaeologist and producer based in Los Angeles, acknowledged the sensitivity of the situation, especially given contemporary geopolitical tensions, including ongoing conflict involving Iran. However, Baer also suggested that the ensuing discussion — though contentious — has highlighted important conversations about looting, colonialism, and ethical stewardship of cultural heritage, advocating for transparency and public engagement on these matters.
The use of historical artifacts in celebrity fashion is not unprecedented. At the same London event, Anne Hathaway wore a Bulgari diamond watch featuring an ancient Roman coin, while earlier in 2024, Margot Robbie appeared with Cartier’s Taj Mahal diamond necklace, a piece historically linked to Indian imperial heritage and previously owned by Elizabeth Taylor.
The debate over Zendaya's choice reflects wider tensions around cultural heritage, ownership, and the responsibilities of individuals and institutions in preserving ancient history. Institutions such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art hold objects from the Ziwiye hoard, part of a globally dispersed collection whose fragmented provenance underscores the ongoing complexities of artifact repatriation and stewardship. Calls for returning looted cultural property have gained momentum internationally, with some museums beginning to repatriate items to their countries of origin.
As these discussions enter the public arena, experts emphasize the need for continued dialogue about the legacies of colonialism, the ethics of collecting, and the duties owed to cultural heritage in the modern age.
