In Milan on Wednesday, designer Simone Bellotti unveiled his latest spring 2027 collection for Jil Sander, emphasizing themes of uniformity and vulnerability. Bellotti’s approach eschews elaborate narratives or fictional backdrops, instead focusing directly on the garments themselves. As he described backstage, “We do garments,” highlighting a design philosophy centered on craftsmanship and subtle innovation rather than storytelling.

The collection explores the suit and dress as foundational elements, treating each piece as malleable material to be shaped and reconfigured. Bellotti’s meticulous alterations often manifest in nuanced changes such as the angle of a shoulder, the turn of a collar, or the presence and placement of buttons. These small details invite careful observation and reveal the evolution of tailored clothing within the collection.

One of the early looks features a straight-cut, three-button suit that channels the minimalist ethos synonymous with Jil Sander’s origins while also nodding to the brand’s 1990s heyday. This classic silhouette establishes a base from which Bellotti gradually introduces more experimental forms.

By the ninth look, the jacket adopts a boxy, inflated A-line silhouette, almost two-dimensional in appearance and reminiscent of folded construction paper. The collection then proceeds to increasingly deconstructed shapes, including a longer jacket gathered awkwardly at the midsection, suggesting a garment that has been lived in and altered through wear.

This theme of distortion culminates in a jacket heavily folded over at the front, breaking traditional blazer form into a shape that appears intentionally disheveled and asymmetrical. Rather than presenting a conventional item for wear, these designs comment on the imperfections and vulnerabilities inherent in clothing—and by extension, in identity.

The collection concludes with a sport coat that, while free from visible creases, carries the imprint of the collection’s thematic journey. This final piece is longer, edging toward a tailcoat silhouette, with a fuller cut and reduced buttons, embodying an evolved “uniform” that brings together elements from past, present, and possibly future iterations of the Jil Sander design language.

Bellotti’s collection reveals a continuous interplay between structure and disruption, underscoring his commitment to reexamining classic shapes through a contemporary lens that embraces both refinement and imperfection.